|North Rim Routes
Yellow Submarine is located in the Guppy Gully (the gully between Lauren’s Arete and the Guppy Buttress) It is accessed via the North Vista Trail. Although the route does wander somewhat between ledgy terrain in spots, it links some quality pitches of climbing (pitches 3 and 5 in particular) and tops out back at the rim, just a few minutes from the North Vista Trail. The route starts getting shade in the afternoon, and could be combined with Lauren’s Arete for a longer day.
P1 – 60m (5.10-) Locate the cairn and start in a crack system on the left edge of a slab which appears low angle. When the crack ends, move right out onto the slab (the gear does appear – small tcus) Top out on a ledge, move left of a tree and continue up non-descript face climbing on dark rock. Pull a 5.8ish bulge and climb left to end on a second ledge. Belay left of a the tree at a triangular block leaning against the wall.
P2 – 35m (5.8+) Climb around the triangle block and continue up non-descript face with cool pockets in the rock. Stay right of the chossy corner system with bushes on your left. End this pitch at a stance with a fixed pin (there's another pin out right which begins the pitch 3 traverse) the stance is about 20’ below a bushy alcove.
P3 – 60m (5.10) Clip the pin and traverse right out onto the face (stay low) Locate the crack system and climb towards a solidly lodged block in the face. Climb through the block and up the thin crack to a ledge (crux) Continue up the large, right facing corner to end on a terrace. Move up and left of the trees to belay near the base of a large chimney with loose blocks and a roof to the right.
P4 – 30m (5.8+) Once you have located the chimney, look for a splitter fist crack on the wall (facing left) This is hard to spot from the belay. Climb up towards the chimney, then move right to locate the crack. Climb this short pitch and end on a large terrace/gully above. Do not continue climbing up the pegmatite aręte to your left.
P5 – 55m (5.9+) Move the belay across the gully to the base of the wall behind it. Pitch 5 starts at a section of peg below massive roofs on your left. Climb excellent rock through varied crack systems (stay left of a pine tree located on the face), moving up towards a large roof above. Pull airy moves to the right of the roof, ending on a large ledge/tunnel system which splits the granite from the pegmatite above.
P6 – 40m (5.10) Clip a fixed pin and pull boulder moves in the pegmatite until you reach easier terrain above. Climb left on 5.5 terrain through the peg towards a quartz dike and the high point of the rim.
Return to North Vista Trail.
Hike the North Vista Trail for about .75 miles. Enter the Guppy Gully at the first major sandstone drainage (about 300’ past an overlook sign) Head down the gully for about 30 minutes, through many sections of easy down climbing and one short, fixed rappel. Pass a large, stand alone, pegmatite aręte (about 400’ tall) on your left. Look for water streaked slabs on your right. When the gully opens up at the base of the water streaked slabs, look for a large box elder tree and a cairn which marks the start of the route (much closer to gully than the start of The Life Aquatic) Climb up a crack system on the left edge of a slab which appears low angle.
Standard double rack, a couple tiny TCUs, (1)#4.
|By erik wellborn|
From: manitou springs
Sep 13, 2011
Pretty fun. Nice route to do if the weather is iffy or just looking for a half day adventure. The 5th pitch is one of the more memorable 5.9s in the canyon.