P1 - climb the chimney to double hand cracks behind the bush or climb Yellow Tail (5.9+) through the roof to a bolted belay (100ft)
P2 - climb a bushy right-facing corner on the right side of the arete to a slabby ledge system. We skipped the bolted anchors and belayed at the base of an east-facing wall (150ft).
P3 - climb the corner passing two knobs. Sling the second knob at then move left to gain the east face via a dike. Climb the knobs and cracks to a ledge with a bolted anchor (100ft).
P4 - climb up (trending right) past a roof to a hand and finger crack/flake (crux). Continue right through some brokeness to the false summit and belay bolts. From here, 20 feet of 5.5 will get you to the top (180ft).
Walk off to the west is the best option.
doubles to 3" plus a 4" piece, crux takes finger size cams
Start this climb via the right facing corner to a ...
Pitch 2 goes up the right side of the arete.
Adam Hamburg approaching the crux moves.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Nov 18, 2013
The first pitch of this route is a stellar 9+ crack through a roof. Everything is there, and it is technical hand crack climbing at its best.
|By Milton Mugambe|
Mar 9, 2014
There must be a bit of confusion, the roof pitch with the bolt is the first pitch of an entirely different climb...it's named Topographic Oceans. Yellow Tail start to the left of this pitch and Yellow Fin starts to the right. Dan