Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: JJ Schlick (Lead) R.Kollath (TR)
Page Views: 4,294 total · 20/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny

You & This Route


30 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

A beautiful, airy pitch which climbs out the top half of the wall.

Start on a cushy belay ledge. The climbing starts out with stemming and edges with a few good finger jams below the crux. The crux involves hiking your feet up into a splitter stem, with an awkward jam (I found one finger to be the key) and a slopey crimp. Then deadpointing or stretching for the distant jugs. After your feet are on the jugs think left. At a small ledge with a slight bulge above you work left to easier climbing to the top on good rock.

When I did the FFA, both Dave and I agreed 12a seemed fair. Another route James “cleaned” post FFA that got easier and “better”. Any changes to the seam would have made a considerable difference. This was a clean pitch when I first did it and I think the images tell the tale.

Location Suggest change

The route is about 30 feet south of Road to Emerald City. Maybe 60 feet south of Danger High Voltage.

Protection Suggest change

Small wires and brass are ticket with some bomber blue Metolius or the same BD down low. The crux is well protected. The top 15 feet or so is run out, but the climbing there is 5.7ish or so. Yellow and orange Metolius or the likes in a jaggedy horizontal are your last pieces. Nuts or small hexes or tricams even may work better here.

Photos

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