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Chicken Head Ranch
Routes Sorted
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Bart's Route S 
Beaks and Feet S 
Chicken Spit S 
Cluck Cracks T 
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 
Crystal Key, The S 
Extra Crispy S 
Finger Lickin' Good S 
Fracture, The T 
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Mini-Splitter T 
Raining Chickens S 
Super Chicken S 
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 
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Unjust S 
Wishbone Dihedral S 
Yellow Dot S 

Yellow Dot 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,237
Submitted By: Garrett Bales on Sep 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Kevin getting started up arete.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Yellow Dot goes up the arete directly. This has solid 11 climbing to a bouldery, 12 crux midway up, then more 11 to finish.

Location 

The route is located on the arete to the right of the giant, bolted, "wishbone" dihedral, on the east face of Chicken Head Ranch.
Got to this route per Tod Anderson's great new guide, "Rampart Range Rocks." Thanks for the fun new climbs, Tod!

Protection 

11 bolts, includes 2 bolt anchor.


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By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Sep 19, 2010

Maybe it's just me, but this crux was hard for 12a. Very sequential. But a such a sweet climb!
By Andy McAdams
Jul 17, 2011

Having just climbed this route today, I found the crux to be fairly stiff as well; however, I did enjoy pulling the small overhang at the end.
By Christian Mason
From: Arvada, CO
May 15, 2012

It's not just you. I thought the crux on this one was really tough for 12a as well. The climb itself was stellar though.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 1, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

We found this one oddly difficult for 12a at Devil's Head. It seemed considerably more difficult than the other 12a's (or pretty much anything up to 12c for that matter) I've done there. Kind of bizarre.

The climbing just to get up to the crux is fairly in your face. This is some great climbing. The crux seemed pretty low probability, particularly on a hot humid day. It took us a bit to figure something out. I didn't really find the moves in the crux to be that enjoyable, but I typically don't enjoy sloper slapping in the first place, so I am somewhat biased. The climbing above the crux is no gimme either. The holds are pretty bad.

Very interesting route.
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jun 16, 2014

I'm not sure if something has broken off. About four or five years ago, I led this route cleanly on my first attempt. Yesterday I could not pull the crux at all, after many attempts. I studied it hard, so I don't think I missed any holds. Perhaps I've just gotten stupider (very possible!).