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Yellow Brick Road 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Geoff Archer and Kai Buskirk, December 1989
Page Views: 699
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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"Yellow Brick Road".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

A great face climb up the center of the wall with good rock and engaging moves. Protection is enough to call this a sport climb.

Originally rated 5.11a, some broken holds at the crux have bumped the grade up a few notches. The climbing tends to be more or less vertical with the crux involving thin edges and technical footwork.

Protection 

8 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")


Photos of Yellow Brick Road Slideshow Add Photo
Erik Eriksson on "Yellow Brick Road". <br />Photo by Blitzo. <br />
Erik Eriksson on "Yellow Brick Road".
Photo by Bli...
"Yellow Brick Road". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Yellow Brick Road".
Photo by Blitzo.
Dave Stoner on the sharp end. FA party on Yellow Brick Road
Dave Stoner on the sharp end. FA party on Yellow B...

Comments on Yellow Brick Road Add Comment
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By Murf
Nov 10, 2003

Worth noting that one of the bolts, I believe its the second, is missing the hanger. May be sporting a hitched nut.
By Vernon Stiefel
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I left a wired stopper with a locking biner on the hangerless bolt a couple of years ago but I have been told it is no longer there. This route would deserve more stars if the rock was better quality at the crux.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 10, 2003

I'll add a hanger next time I'm out there if needed. Agreed about the rock quality - that's one reason holds broke off at the crux.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 26, 2010

still missing the 2nd hanger. Sorry I didn't read this page before I hiked up or I would have replaced it. nut (for the bolt, not a wired nut) still on the stud and moves freely, so it should be fixable with just a hanger and a crescent wrench. Or, sling the stud with a wired nut.

Some of the route was really nice, but the snapped holds at the crux are quite obvious, a large amount of orange scars, really took away from the quality of the route.
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jan 4, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

Also worth noting that this feels hard for the grade, in addition to having to bust 5.10+ moves above the hangerless bolt. Aside from the direct start holds (you could also step off a boulder) nothing felt too loose. It might have all broken off by now...but it's definitely harder than 5.11a. Very technical and elaborate movement with a distinct crux section.