Yellow Brick Road 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Geoff Archer and Kai Buskirk, December 1989 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Erik Eriksson on "Yellow Brick Road".
Photo by Bli...
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Description A great face climb up the center of the wall with good rock and engaging moves. Protection is enough to call this a sport climb.
Originally rated 5.11a, some broken holds at the crux have bumped the grade up a few notches. The climbing tends to be more or less verical with the crux involving thin edges and technical footwork.
Protection 8 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")
Dave Stoner on the sharp end. FA party on Yellow B...
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BETA PHOTO: "Yellow Brick Road".
Photo by Blitzo.
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"Yellow Brick Road".
Photo by Blitzo.
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| Comments on Yellow Brick Road |
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By Murf
Nov 10, 2003
| Worth noting that one of the bolts, I believe its the second, is missing the hanger. May be sporting a hitched nut. |
By Vernon Stiefel
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11c
| I left a wired stopper with a locking biner on the hangerless bolt a couple of years ago but I have been told it is no longer there. This route would deserve more stars if the rock was better quality at the crux. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 10, 2003
| I'll add a hanger next time I'm out there if needed. Agreed about the rock quality - that's one reason holds broke off at the crux. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 26, 2010
| still missing the 2nd hanger. Sorry I didn't read this page before I hiked up or I would have replaced it. nut (for the bolt, not a wired nut) still on the stud and moves freely, so it should be fixable with just a hanger and a crescent wrench. Or, sling the stud with a wired nut.
Some of the route was really nice, but the snapped holds at the crux are quite obvious, a large amount of orange scars, really took away from the quality of the route. |
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jan 4, 2013
rating: 5.11d PG13
| Also worth noting that this feels hard for the grade, in addition to having to bust 5.10+ moves above the hangerless bolt. Aside from the direct start holds (you could also step off a boulder) nothing felt too loose. It might have all broken off by now...but it's definitely harder than 5.11a. Very technical and elaborate movement with a distinct crux section. |
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