The SCC owns only the right-hand section of Yellow Bluff. The end of this section is marked with a wooden "no trespassing" sign; do not climb or hike past this boundary, as it could jeopardize efforts to open more cliffline in the future. Also, do not top out on any climb at Yellow Bluff as this is private property.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Apart from being a great climbing area, Yellow Bluff is the latest triumph of ownership by climbers of once-closed crags. As of March 2009, a sizeable chuck of this cliff is owned by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC).
Located near Huntsville, Yellow Bluff is a long (about 1500') unbroken hard sandstone cliff. Development began in the 1980s with the discovery of the cliff by Atlanta climber Shannon Stegg. Numerous trad lines were established by Stegg and other pioneers, including James Dobbs and Curt and Betty Jo Merchant. Later, local leaders like Jesse Guthrie began putting up sport routes, including Guthrie's Rainbow Warrior (5.13a/b), the first 5.13 in Alabama. The quality of climbing at Yellow Bluff attracted attention from as far away as NY; climbers flocked to sample the excellent sandstone crack lines.
Unfortunately, this growing popularity was Yellow Bluff's downfall. The crag was on private property, and the owner was tolerant as long as climbing was a low-profile affair. But when articles extolling the cliff appeared in national climbing magazines, the owner reacted negatively to the increased traffic. Yellow Bluff was closed to climbing.
All that changed in late 2008 as long-standing efforts by the SCC finally bore fruit. In early December, the SCC announced that it had secured a contract to purchase the right half of Yellow Bluff. Fund-raising efforts to secure the money for the purchase quickly gained steam, and the $34,000 purchase price was quickly raised through grants and donations from individuals. The contract was finalized in March 2009 and Yellow Bluff is now open for climbing.
From Birmingham, take I-65 north for about 70 miles to exit 328. Go east on SR 36, then take a right on SR 67. Just before the crossroads for the small town of Florette, turn left on All Jersey Road, which changes shortly to Jenkins Road. When Jenkins Rd. dead ends at Fowler Road, turn left and continue a quarter-mile to where it dead ends and turn right, then take a slight left onto West Point Road. The pull-off for Yellow Bluff is about a quarter-mile on the left.
From Atlanta, take I-20 west into Alabama for about 110 miles to the Pell City area. Take exit 158A to US 231 North. Continue on 231 through Oneonta (as you'd go for Palisades) and past Cleveland, about 50 miles. Shortly after crossing US 278, take a left on SR 67 and follow this about 20 miles. Just before the Florette crossroads, turn right on Pines Road; follow this for about a mile to a sharp left onto Fowler Road. Continue as noted above to Yellow Bluff.
An area is being cleared to make a parking lot; until this is completed, park on the gravel shoulder across the road. From the parking lot area, follow the obvious trail marked with surveyors tape. A five-minute hike will bring you to the base of the cliff.
Some have said this should get an R rating, but if you trust in some shallow nuts in the lower half I would say PG. The physical crux is protected by 2 bomber pins, the topmost of which recently held a nice whipper. Pull onto the undercut wall and trend just slightly left to a #3 cam placement about 10-15 feet up. Continue up fantastic, steep, technical face moves through 2 pitons and the ultimate crux. Pull this and continue through a small amount of 5.7 to a bolted anchor.Stellar fac...[more]Browse More Classics in AL
No fires in or around Yellow Bluff, please. Recently I found a fresh fire spot against the bluff right next to "Little Angry Jamie" a classic sport. This deteriates the rock, thus ruining the route. If this fire would have been a few more feet to the right, it would have ruined this classic route.
I haven't heard anyone refer to Yellow Bluff as a winter climbing area, but I was out there this weekend and there were plenty of climbable routes, a few getting great sunlight. Temps were probably low 50s and it was great. Just in case you were wondering...
Does anyone know any FA info on Yellow Bluff. It would be awesome to add here. I really like this place but don't know much about the history here. Let me know if you can point me in the right direction.
The one time I've visited since the SCC secured the property I noticed that several of what were originally trad routes had bee retro-bolted, unfortunately. Two or three that i'd done, anyway. Too bad. They were some proud trad lines