|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 95'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Trevor Bowman & Bryan Schmitz 6/22/08|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||mid-summer through fall|
|Page Views: ||239|
|Submitted By: ||Trevor Bowman on Jun 23, 2008|
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The gnawed on fawn legs left on the summit from so...
The climbing on this route isn't very appealing, but it sure is one hell of a tower! This route is the only one on the tower currently, and is the only really viable weakness offering a free line. It surmounts the steep downhill face via a stair-step flake/crack. The flake starts trending left, then it diagonals back right up to a large ledge about 12' below the summit and up a final crack groove. Much of the climbing involves hand and finger cracks, some of which are quite sharp (tape recommended). There are several short isolated crux sequences between good rest ledges and stances. Some large hollow blocks must be moved over with caution, and can't be entirely avoided.
On the downhill, down-canyon edge of the tower is a stair-stepped flake system.
A double rack of camalots through #2, with one #3 and one #4, a single set of stoppers, lots of extended runners or double ropes due to the zig-zag nature of the route, and about 5' of replacement webbing for the upper tree anchor.
The summit cairn of the Whistlepig with the Snaffl...
Bryan on top of the Whistlepig after the FA.
Hungry after the FA.
Bryan rapping down the Whistlepig.