|122 page views|
This is the farthest left crack climb on the Third Band. There is a medium-size tree right next to it. It starts as a finger crack and opens up to a hand crack. The rock at the start is particularly sharp.
A note about the rating: Gillett writes in his guidebook to the canyon "the opening moves are a little harder than 5.9, but it's simple enough to cheat by using a foothold in the cedar [tree]". We didn't use the tree and the proposed rating reflects that. A larger wingspan than mine (6'0") may make it easier than what I proposed.
This is on a block called the Egg that can be seen from the road. It's the furthest left block on the Third Band. This will probably be the first route that you encounter when approaching the Third Band.
Descend by walking off the backside. Exit climber's left to get back to the base.
Standard rack from a #0.4 to #3 Camalot. There's a cold-shut at the top of the crack and a single bolt to its left. I belayed at the bolt and backed it up with a #3 Camalot.
Mar 30, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Sharp and fairly strenuous. The difficult climbing lasts a little bit longer than it looks. If the businees section was any longer, I would probably give it 10-.