Year of the Pyscho Bitch (a.k.a. Process of Elimination) 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Ladd Raine on Jul 11, 2007 |
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Muel chalking before finishing up the flake
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Description Start on sloping jugs under a sloping ledge, throw a high heel, lock off and use the crimps to gain the slopers on the ledge (1st crux), latch the crimp go up and right to a jug, then continue up the super pumpy flake to the top horn (2d crux) for a pumpy but easy anchor clip.
Location Right most route on the overhanging portion of this boulder.
Protection 3 bolts to anchors.
Up until recently these bolts regularly lost their hangers and nuts. Recently (August 2007) Jim Taylor replaced them with some glue-ins that may look weak(some say they look like paperclips or staples), but they are much, much stronger than the rock around them, and at least as strong as the previous bolts that were installed.
Muel just starting his (successful) onsight attemp...
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| Comments on Year of the Pyscho Bitch (a.k.a. Process of Elimination) |
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By blaine.limpus
From: cross lanes
Mar 13, 2012
rating: 5.11+
| super fun line. its very bouldery at the start (to me felt more like a V3 or 4) to the second bolt. after that it is super fun, pumpy, flake climbing, but much much easier. i think the start makes it 11+ to be honest. great climb! |
By Zach M
Nov 2, 2012
| Horst's 2001 MD/VA/WV book labels this route as "The Route of All Evil", puts the name "Process of Elimination" on "Delayed Stress Syndrome" and "Straight Up and Narrow" on "Vaseline Vision". Right to left, he grades them 11c, 11b, and 12a/b. I've only ever heard the names here used, but maybe this will help someone find an old route they are looking for. |
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