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Upper Matrix
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Needle to the Vein 
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Year of the Dragon 

Year of the Dragon 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 8'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Joel or Chet
Page Views: 1,304
Submitted By: skinny legs and all on Feb 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Year of the Dragon

Description 

Year of the Dragon is a bit of an anomaly for Mt. Gretna. It climbs a slightly overhanging face on, gasp, actual holds! Plus, the sequence is not cryptic.

Start sitting on two crimps. Backstep and work up solid, small crimps to the obvious, beckoning sloping pinch. This hold is one of the best in all of Mt. Gretna. Slap out left around the slight corner to a sidepull. Keep it together and squeeze the right arete to topout.

I always felt that it helped to be tall for this problem. I could never keep my feet on while moving from the pinch, while I watched Ernie have no problem with it over and over. I consider this a benchmark problem for V6 at Mt. Gretna. Of course, that is assuming optimal conditions. The pinch will feel impossible to hang onto in the summer. There is an excellent video of this problem on the 2001 film Hard Gret.

Location 

Walk 100 meters past the upper and lower matrix. Year of the Dragon will be on your right just off the trail, and the problem will face your back. The boulder is downhill of the large Green Marble boulder.

Protection 

Single pad.


Photos of Year of the Dragon Slideshow Add Photo
Kelly working Year of the Dragon
Kelly working Year of the Dragon
Rocky working Year of the Dragon
Rocky working Year of the Dragon

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