Work up and slightly left over shallow, broken ledges clipping 3 bolts along the way. Face climb past 2 bolts to a stance on small holds. Clip the last bolt then climb up to its right to "good" handholds. Make a couple of committing moves (crux) to get up to the coldshut anchors.
Crux Beta: The crux can be passed with a mantle maneuver or by face climbing extremely thin holds to the left of the mantle hold.
The climb is on the N side of the Ridgeline formation on the other side of the tower opposite Glowing in the Distance. The base of the climb is accessed by climbing the tower on the SE side via Eye of the Dragon (5.5 R, no pro "airy-scary" move) or climbing the NW side via Dragon's Head (5.5 R, exposed but can be protected) and rapelling down off the anchors on top. Alternatively one can hike back around the top of Ridgeline and descend the slope next to the back wall. Start at a short broken up crack and left facing dihedral to the right of a 20 ft high block topped by a small, distressed pine.
6 bolts to 2 coldshuts
There are 2 bolt anchors with hangers on the top of the formation from which one can set up a rappel. However, there are no chains or slings on the anchors.
Oct 22, 2007
Yep, a bit "hairy" to mount the Dragon's Head, easy moves (5.5 will cover it) but, absolutely, do not let go until you are safely seated on the Dragon's Pate!
I did this climb a number of years ago, on a dark (if not stormy)afternoon. In the shade the rock was cold, and the grippy-thin holds were hard on my deteriorating knuckles. But it impressed me as it maintained a general level of difficulty all the way up. I remember only one good rest stance, so the ascent gave me a real forearm pump, LOL, just keep moving! A grand view from the top of the Dragon's head!
At the time I first did this climb I was heading into a period of deep physical decline, but back then it felt 5.10-ish to me. I'm actually in better shape now, and I'll try it again to see what sort of difficulty rating I'd give it now.
Great map and photo Brian, great route description,THANKS!