Ye Olde Hysterical
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This routes leads up through the obvious, right-facing dihedral 3/4 up the rock on the left side, but it is spiked with awesome climbing along the way. There are some old 1/4" bolts along this route but no viable bolted belays.
P1. We started at a black streak 50 feet left of the prow of the rock, up a blocky start, did some gardening, and climbed an awesome hand traverse left over to a bunch of slings.
P2. Go straight up and tend leftward over to a ledge with old bolts and a bolt ladder up a face. Enjoy some awesome friction, and crush straight up the bolt line and pull a lip. Go 10 more feet and you've reached the base of the dihedral.
P3. Blast up this beautiful dihedral to the top, or a take an intermediate rest at a great belay ledge above it.
P4. This is for if you did not skip the optional belay ledge.
This route has awesome climbing on every pitch - it is not to be missed!
This is on the left side of the cliff, walk to rap station when you get to the top.
|Comments on Ye Olde Hysterical
Jul 27, 2012
rating: 5.10b PG13
The one bolt that can be used on the second pitch friction slab is sketchy. The pin above it isn't any better (I missed it on lead). If you were to take a fall, that bolt wouldn't hold and you would certainly deck on the ledge below.
Great climbing. Just needs to be cleaned up a bit.