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Pitch 1- Climb 5.8 friction climbing to the first bolt (25ft). Clip with great relief and follow the right trending water drain to a second bolt. This is very runout, but the rock here is very featured. Clip the second bolt and the two ring anchor is another 15 feet up. (5.8)
Pitch 2- Climb up and left past some overlaps. Clip a bolt and head up on easier ground to another bolt and a bolted belay station. (5.8)
This route is 30 feet to the left of No Alternative. Look up to see a right-facing crack and some small flakes. Top out the climb and walk left or right to bolted rap stations. Make sure not to run into ascending parties on your way down.
Consider using a tcu before the first bolt on Pitch 1. The rest could be done on no more than six quickdraws. All anchors are fixed ring anchors.
Second pitch, run-out?
Kimberly happy to finish and get her shoes off!
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Oct 20, 2011
First ever slab lead at Stone and Boy oh Boy it was a wild ride! Easy terrain all the way up but the pro is few and far between. Clipping the first bolt is a bit dicey and unnerving but after some committing moves you are rewarded with easy ground the rest of the way up (minus the freaky deaky run outs). This climb will definitely put your head on right and if you send it without pooping yourself then a wonderful future of Slab climbing awaits you!!!
|By John Saunders|
From: Cornelius, NC
Dec 29, 2011
This is quite confusing. Ive seen plenty clip that bolt on banana breath which is actually about 25' up. The one time I tried this one, I climbed up the lower left facing corner to a flake then attempted to pull through the bulge straight below the bolt that was about 40' up.. that bulge was harder than 5.8 which I sketched on and downclimbed.. which is it? 25' to banana breath bolt or 40' to higher bolt? Either way I don't think that bulge is 5.8 if you have to pull it. Crystal Lizards (5.8+) wasn't that difficult..
|By P. Sully|
Aug 24, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
John, the description of pitch one is not correct for the original Yardarm route.
The original route goes straight up to the first bolt 40' up. There is some shabby gear before the bolt but the crux of the climb is right before the 1st bolt. I remember it distinctly as it was one of my first ever leads, and I was scared shitless.
Most parties do climb the route as described above; by clipping the bolt on Banana Breath 1st. Either way you are run out when you pull the crux move.
The 1st bolt is placed at the 1st good stance for hand drilling on lead which is the way this route was put up; just like most of the routes at Stone. Just think back when this was established sticky rubber had not yet been invented.