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Yardarm 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Davdson and Larry Coats
Page Views: 782
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Jun 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Yardarm is the second route left of Crow's Nest. It would be an instant classic if it were only a little longer.

Rap about 40' down to the start ledge and build an anchor at the base of a splitter finger crack. Climb the straight in finger crack with the occational foot hold back to the rim.


Protection 

2 x sets TCU's
2 x .5 Camalots
1 x .75, #1, #2 Camalots
Plus a few cams/stoppers to build an anchor with.



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By mattso
Jan 29, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Really fun line, bomber finger locks the whole way. the feet were tricky. Dave my partner for the day insisted that it was a 5.9, and he could not get it at all. I told him it looked harder than 5.9 because he could not pull it and the grade is well within his range. I got on it and it was no 5.9. The business was short, but sustained. If it was any longer the grade may be a little harder like 11a.

By Paul Davidson
Apr 7, 2008

Rap down ?
Climb up from the ground and top out...

Eh, we might have set an anchor on the ledge but we surely
did not rap onto the ledge.

My recollection is that I had to twist Larry's arm for the belay
because from the ground it looks like a bit of junk.

Turns out the climbing is great, but short, as noted.
It will give you your moneys worth.

By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 13, 2010

Start off the ground.