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Jailhouse Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armed Robbery S 
Assault with Battery S 
Climb Spree S 
Cold Hand Luke T 
Crime and Punishment T 
Finger Prince S 
Grand Theft Otto T 
Hard Time T 
Jailbreak S 
Just Punishment T 
Petty Theft T 
Prison Overcrowding S 
Safecracker T 
Sentenced To Hang S 
Sentenced Traverse 
Solitary Refinement S 
Yard Boss S 

Yard Boss 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: EFR, JSt, JBak, Matt Birch
New Route: Yes
Season: All year
Page Views: 1,803
Submitted By: Jimbo on Mar 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Dom trying to dry the route with his shirt in an a...

Description 

Onsighted to the last move on a top rope inspection run by Matt Birch, this route is now bolted and an open project. (Matt left for his V14 boulder projects in Flagstaff before he had a chance to red point it.) We're all working on it, so it's an open race for the FA. Matt's back in April and he will get it on his next run, so if you want it you better get after it!!

The 12d rating is subject to change, but it's several letter grades harder than anything else on the wall. Expect crimpy, technical, powerful moves, a couple of hard clips and the crux up high.

It's been redpointed by the irascible EFR. No more open project, no glory now. Just good hard climbing for all those who get on it.


Location 

Goes straight up the steep unlikely looking face between Armed Robbery and Crime and Punishment.


Protection 

Bolts, chains



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2007
By jbak
Mar 26, 2007

This route is a testament to the concept of "dialing in". I drilled the anchors just for something to do while belaying Joe on his project. But looking at it I thought "man this has got to be at least hard 13" so I wasn't taking it seriously. Especially after EFR's story that Scully wasn't able to do much with it.

After benefiting from Eric's beta yesterday, I'm now thinking it *might* even be possible for me. 12d/13a seems pretty close. I'm still not sure how much I like it. I woke up with micro-bruises on my tips this morning...haven't had those since working stuff on Beaver Wall.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 8, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

I thought the crimps were painful on this climb until I did Tsunami. Man are those holds painful. It has been a while since my tips were in shape for windy point face climbs. As far as the crux goes it has to be the first 20 feet getting to the horizontal break. Also making some of the clips is tough too. Took three whippers from the holds by the third bolt. Jbak and Jim Scott kept me well (5 feet) off the ground but it is mentally a bit challenging. No time for your belayer to be chatting it up. Finding the vulcan finger greeting layback is key up high as is skipping the last bolt on the redpoint attempt. Thanks for getting the fire restarted on this one Jbak.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 8, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

The name Capitol Punishment has already been used at the Canines. How about Corporal Punishment, Multiple peels, Court of a peel? Last Request, Death To Your Tips Row, Jail Bird, Death Row, Yard Boss, Big House, The Heist, Stolen Property, Shiv, Shank, Contraband? False Arrest, Rap Sheet, Multiple Arrests, Criminal Record? Criminal Mind? The Thief, Sticky Fingers, Pain Gang, Firing Squad, Criminal Enterprise, Crime Wave, Climb of Passion, Aggravated Assault, Multiple Assailants, Informant, Tipster,

By Jimbo
Apr 8, 2007

How about Yard Boss or Prison Labor.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 8, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Yard Boss works for me. I would call it 12d until a few folks have done it. The state of my fitness and the fact it took me two tries less than any other 13 I have done makes me think it is 12d but hey maybe it just fits me. I also question if it is only two letters harder than Finger Prince which we thought was 12c until we got on Tsunami. Jbak always called Finger... 12b. Of course when Matt did Yard Boss on TR and then almost got it on the first ever redpoint attempt he called it 12b. But what does he know he only boulders V14.

By Luke Bertelsen
Apr 8, 2007

I was fortunate enough to get to see the first ascent. Congrats Eric. I personaly like the shiv or shank reference for a name, but Yard Boss sounds good. Can't wait to get on it next week.

By jbak
Apr 9, 2007

I think Joe deserves credit for bringing the main wall here to critical mass. He correctly posited the existence of two or more good routes to the right of SENTENCED and that's what touched off the wave of bolting.

Good send Eric. It may be 13a. It seems to fit your body pretty well and you may be in better shape than you think.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Mr. Joe Shiefman seems to have a knack for that. The Helmet was also his idea wasn't it? As far as Jailhouse Rock goes the new routes right of Sentenced... have all been looked at before. But until the post fire rains left all that sand it wouldn't have been possible to start them with dry feet without traversing in from about 15 feet left. Even so my hat is off to him for getting the ball rolling. Of course if you guys had kept your mouths shut it would have saved Jim and I about $100. Of course we could have been more patient too. As far as Yard Boss goes it would be cool if it turned out to be 13a. Maybe after Vince does that one on Punch and Judy he will have a clue about how hard it really is.

By jbak
Apr 10, 2007

Well it would be pretty hard to keep anything secret there. It's popular to the point of insanity. And I couldn't see tagging anything more there, I've got enough projects already. I'm going to have to keep mum about a few other areas though...you and Jim just have too much free time !

By jbak
Apr 11, 2007

Vulcan Salute.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

What was the saying "Hang on and prosper."?

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 15, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Hey Jbak, If this route "fits me" it is skin tight on Vince. After two TR runs two weeks ago he did it Saturday on his first lead attempt. It was fun to watch and listen to. He had a nearly redpoint ending barn door at the top and enough Kung Fu yells to make a movie. I think it fits Vince better than me.

By lamina
Apr 16, 2007

Yard Boss #1, now I see what you mean. Because if you are not Yard Boss, life in Jailhouse could be very rough....

By Boodge Nomchompski
Jul 27, 2007

Is this the route LEFT of Crime and Punishment? The description says it's between C&P and Armed Robbery, which would mean it's to the right of C&P, correct? Just checking because I want to make sure I'm actually getting on Armed Robbery, which I thought was the route immediately to the right of C&P.
Thanks.

By jbak
Jul 27, 2007

ecivey -- you are right, the descrip is wrong.