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Yang & Yin 

Yang & Yin 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Knarzer & Catherine Conner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Catherine Conner on Jun 14, 2011
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Description 

This route is to the left of Resurrection and uphill slightly. P1 5.10 Yang: 100' approx. Starts in great jam crack then widens for the rest of the way. Gear & 5 bolts. At the top after roof you will go up left onto large ledge to find anchor. Step around corner to left of anchor to see P2: 5.9 Yin: 90' approx. You can leave the big gear at this anchor (largest needed is #4). At top of P2 anchor, you can scramble above to top out. Two raps with 70m, though a 60m *probably* will work. Rap off P2 anchors to top of P1, then rap P1 directly down from P1 anchors.


Location 

See pic-If you are looking at the chimney of resurrection, just look to the left of that route for the next wide looking crack. You cross the creek, just balance up a log and scramble up hill a little. The crack that gets wide is unmistakable.


Protection 

P1: Small to .5 size cams, two #2, one #3, two #6's, and one Big Bro. P2: Standard-#4...
Draws & slings.



Photos of Yang & Yin Slideshow Add Photo
P1 wide-then up 100' go left slightly and see P2 crack. You can top out above P2 anchor.
BETA PHOTO: P1 wide-then up 100' go left slightly and see P2 c...
Close up of P1
BETA PHOTO: Close up of P1
Manny on Yang and Yin(5.10), in the beautiful confines of the creek.
Manny on Yang and Yin(5.10), in the beautiful conf...
Close(er)-up of P2.
BETA PHOTO: Close(er)-up of P2.
Comments on Yang & Yin Add Comment
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By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 14, 2011

Good rock and great fun. Work through the Yang and get the Yin!!!

By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 18, 2012

Soooo, maybe the rock is not perfect at the top of each pitch.

By bio
From: mesa, az
Jun 26, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Very good route with varied climbing including hands, off-width, chimney, fingers, has it all. excellent rock on P1, P2 rock mostly good tho a bit sugary at top out. Someone added more bolts on P1 making this a very safe, though strenuous pitch.