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> Yak Peak
Yak Crack
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in Yak Peak
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All in the Family T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beckey route/Speedway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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CardiYak Rhythm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Clyde and Isabelle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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Coquihalla Honey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0 |
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East Face Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hole in My Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Porcelain Chicken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Reality Check T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Southwest Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Yak Check T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yak Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1600 ft (485 m), 14 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | R. Cox, J. Benetto, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 7,232 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Aug 13, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Large Rockfall
Details
There was a large rockfall from Yak Peak on July 28, 2022. The extent of damage to routes or which routes have been affected is not yet known. Until more information is known it's best to stay away from the area. This will be updated when additional details are available.
Description
The first route on the main face, and still a classic climb. In recent years, the combination of the lower part of Yak Crack with the upper pitches of Reality Check has become the most popular line as it avoids the loose rock and tricky routefinding on upper Yak Crack.
Follow the obvious diagonal slanting across Yak's southeast face.
Approach: landmark the massive dihedral that the opening pitches climb near. Do not approach the diheadral directly from below: scramble slabs to the right to a ledge, then traverse hard left to the base of the dihedral and a bolted belay.
P1-2 original: climb the offwidth dihedral directly.
P1-2 as climbed now: move left up a small flake from the base of the dihedral to gain a fingercrack over the lip. Follow this for two and a half pitches of 5.6-5.7 to Lunch Ledge.
P 3-4: from Lunch Ledge, move left to gain the start of the diagonal. Follow this back right to a belay. climb over a short vertical step and continue up to a bush.
p5-7: Climb a ledge, move right and climb a left-facing corner. Above, climb a groove an trend right to belay on a pinnacle. Reality Check crosses here.
p8: climb a rotten chimney to belay in an alcove.
p9-10: climb out of the alcove and up the right rib to a cave. variant: climb a 5.11a fingercrack on the right (Hole in My Heaven joins in here)
p11-12. Climb down slightly out of the cave and move right, then face climb back up into the giant dihedral. Follow it to the top past the odd tricky spot.
Continue up easy slabs to gain the walkoff.
Follow the obvious diagonal slanting across Yak's southeast face.
Approach: landmark the massive dihedral that the opening pitches climb near. Do not approach the diheadral directly from below: scramble slabs to the right to a ledge, then traverse hard left to the base of the dihedral and a bolted belay.
P1-2 original: climb the offwidth dihedral directly.
P1-2 as climbed now: move left up a small flake from the base of the dihedral to gain a fingercrack over the lip. Follow this for two and a half pitches of 5.6-5.7 to Lunch Ledge.
P 3-4: from Lunch Ledge, move left to gain the start of the diagonal. Follow this back right to a belay. climb over a short vertical step and continue up to a bush.
p5-7: Climb a ledge, move right and climb a left-facing corner. Above, climb a groove an trend right to belay on a pinnacle. Reality Check crosses here.
p8: climb a rotten chimney to belay in an alcove.
p9-10: climb out of the alcove and up the right rib to a cave. variant: climb a 5.11a fingercrack on the right (Hole in My Heaven joins in here)
p11-12. Climb down slightly out of the cave and move right, then face climb back up into the giant dihedral. Follow it to the top past the odd tricky spot.
Continue up easy slabs to gain the walkoff.
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