Yaak Crack 5.11d
| 6,982 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Bill Boyle, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Joe Collins on Jan 2, 2001 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: The Gallery
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This along with the Gift probably constitute the two most classic sport routes at the Gallery. This one is exceedingly popular, so best to be patient if you plan on giving this one multiple tries.
Fun pumpy climbing follows the crack system, though no actual crack climbing is required. As with the other routes at the Gallery, this one is probably a bit soft compared to similarly graded climbs at, say, Rifle. Classic and awesome climbing, nonetheless.
Protection 6 bolts
Josh Kobobel lay backing on good holds
|
Josh climbs Yaak Crack with views of the canyons i...
|
Gary Savage on Yaak Crack.
|
The Yak Crack
|
Chalking up and flagging on the Yaak Crack
|
Amy starting up the route.
|
Dan running a lap to show us some beta.
|
Yaak crack
|
Dustin jumps off the top
|
neato climb.
|
adam strickland giving me a catch.
|
Nicole on Yaak Crack
|
Nicole on Yaak Crack
|
Nicole on Yaak Crack
|
Mase putting up the Yaak with ease
|
BETA PHOTO: This is Yaak Crack. Try a hand jam in the crack to...
|
A beautiful climb on great rock.
| |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2004
rating: 5.11b
| A little over a decade ago, in a time when 5.11d was not an on-sight for me or my 5.10-climbing partner, we both got on this climb, and both did it. The grade we agreed upon was lower 5.11. Nice route though. |
By Randy
Feb 24, 2004
rating: 5.11b/c
| Definitely not 11d. A good warm up route for the Gift. |
By 10b4me
Aug 15, 2004
| Grades schmades. I put my hand in ze crack it feels good. Yes!!! |
By Josh Beck
Nov 2, 2004
rating: 5.11b
| More fun than I was expecting and a lot easier as well. Technically I guess it finishes at the anchors to the right of the crack as the anchors to the left are for Minstrel... |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 12, 2006
rating: 5.11c
| really fun climb- i'm not an .11 leader on a regular basis and i managed to flash this route- so i'd agree it's not .11+, despite having nothing to compare it to.
that said, it seems like if you can milk the hand jam rest halfway up, it's definitely easier. i watched some folks who avoided it whip higher up from the pump....
have fun! |
By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 12, 2007
| best route at the gallery |
By 426
Mar 19, 2007
| Yes, classic. I remember this one because right after I onsighted, Bachar soloed "The Gift"...I got two rushes for the price of one. |
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2007
rating: 5.11b
| Delightfully fun route. No single move is particularly hard; the challenge is dealing with the pump. |
By BenL
Feb 27, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c
| nowhere near 11d...
very good climbing, steep and great holds! |
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c
| i nearly onsighted this...got pumped going to the chains. but none-the-less, it would've been my hardest onsight by far. I'd agree with everyone and say it was more like a super sustained 11b with maybe one C move in there somewhere. But it's hard to tell with overhang like that. |
By JB Smith
Jan 11, 2010
| Great bouldery start to jugs, side pulls, a crimp or two, and couple of hand jams topped off with a serious forearm pump. Handren's new guide book gives it 11c and I'd say it's all that and more. |
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Feb 5, 2010
rating: 5.11b
| 5.11a/b |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.11c
| On 1/29/11 the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced all 6 protection bolts on this route with 1/2 x 3.5" 5-piece bolts and replaced the anchors with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped them with mussy hooks. |
By Ben May
From: del mar, ca
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c
| Super Fun! wish it was longer!! Agreed that it should be like an easier 11. The top isn't a gimmee. |
By Climber Ryan
From: Redwood City, CA
Dec 3, 2012
| Last climb of the day for me. Tough start and progressively gets easier. It has big jugs the whole way. |
|
RSS Feed
3 more...
Slideshow
