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YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Todd Anderson and Richard Wright
Page Views: 2,372
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Apr 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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This route is so fun.

Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>


Follow the line of bolts right of Vixen, and make your way up the long slab climb to the huge roof complex above. The slab is relatively mild, and gives good rests. The meat of this route involves a series of large roof sections that lead to a four move crux sequence. Pull this off, avoid the terrible rope drag, and you are on your way to the redpoint.


18 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. There is a significant amount of rope drag on this route if you do not use long draws wisely. Some bolts are not needed, and in particular, two bolts under some two of the roofs should be unclipped after clipping the bolt on the lip to eliminate rope drag, or use a really long sling.

Photos of Y2K Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin in the thick of it.
Kevin in the thick of it.
Multi-photo of Jesse Ryan sending Y2K. Partner Chr...
Multi-photo of Jesse Ryan sending Y2K. Partner Chr...
Liz moving fluidly through the crux roof.
Liz moving fluidly through the crux roof.

Comments on Y2K Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 13, 2001

Cool exposure going through the roofs, but oi vey - that rope drag is pretty nasty! The face leading to the roofs is reachy but fun (11+ or so). The roof section starts with pleasent jugs hauling, but goes from 0 to 60 in a hurry when you hit the dynamic and crimpy crux! Solid for the grade.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

For those not capable of leading 12c, you can easily lead this for the 11 bolts to make a very nice 11- and move L.
By Tod Anderson
Aug 9, 2002

I thought was one of the better routes in the canyon, my biased opinion of course. A long varied pitch, seven separate roofs with about 20' of total overhang, gymnastic moves, 3 stars in my book. As far as rope drag goes, add 6 long slings to your 20 QDs and use them at any point where the rope tends to bend in under the roof (you can clip short where you need to, then unclip leaving the long sling as back pro).
By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002

Incredible position.
By ac
Jul 25, 2005
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Can't say I was as impressed by this climb as other posters. I give it one star since I did not enjoy the climb enough to want to put in work for a redpoint.It was kind of a thrutchy one-move wonder (and a very tough move at that). Even with backcleaning 2 QDs, rope drag got pretty bad near the top... I would recommend using only long draws on the entire roof section leading up to the crux move (as well as the last bolt on the slab). Y2K is certainly more difficult than 10-digit-dialing, but not as nice of a climb.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 1, 2005

The one move is hard - but is it fun? Bad bolting on the approach slab, killer rope drag, etc won't have me coming back for more.
By richard magill
Aug 2, 2005

I had nothing to do with the FA on this thing so I am not being biased about this - I did the route and I thought it was a kick. The multiple massive roofs you go through add up to a great pump and killer position.

This rope drag thing is something you boys should be able to figure out.There is a 3 point plan for doing big roofs like this:

1.USE LONG SLINGS under the roof - I believe this concept was implemented by Gunky roof climbers long ago. It works.

2.UNCLIP some of the draws (from rest stances after you have passed them), or

3. SKIP some of the clips through the roof (there are lots of them).

If all that seems too much you can also bring your belayer up to the anchors at the top of the slab and treat the big roof as an independent pitch. I had no problems with rope drag when I did this. The bolting on the slab is completely fine - there are no issues there.

Secret beta on the crux - right heel hook.Shorter folks may have more difficulty.Pretty hard, burly and reachy, might be a sandbag at 12C.

I still say 3 stars, but if you insist on botching up the rope drag issue, you may not like it as much.
By ac
Aug 2, 2005
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Yes, multiple massive roofs, but little in the way of a pump factor since its a one-move wonder with good rests before and after the crux. Ignoring the rope drag issue, still 1-star climbing: worth doing, but not worth repeating.
By richard magill
Aug 2, 2005

I respectfully disagree with the anonymous detractors, but I must admit my wife (also a climber) sometimes accuses me of loving every climb I do. So maybe I am not as discriminating as some.

But I still highly recommend this route.
By Nate Weitzel
Jun 24, 2007

I first climbed this route years ago, but only did it once as I botched the rope management, had heinous rope drag, and then got distracted to do other things. Now I have gone back to this one, and the while the rope management adds to the complexity of the climb, making you actually plan your route a bit, I think it makes for a more interesting day. Overall, I think this line is fantastic, harder than TDD, and Great Escape, with some very fun, pumpy moves through the roof and good exposure. My current favorite on the wall.
By Mike Humphries
From: Arvada, CO
Apr 18, 2012

Loved this route. the position is killer, the 4 move crux (V6ish) is aesthetic, tension climbing on crimps and slippery feet, and the final awkward 5.11 move to reach the anchors tops it off. Clip the right bolts and rope drag will not be a problem, I didn't back clean any.
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