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Y2K T 

Y2K 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Paul Ross, 11/98
Page Views: 7,205
Submitted By: Scott Conner on Oct 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (115)
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Obi follows up the second pitch of Y2K approaching...

Description 

This is an outstanding route that is usually less crowded than other routes in RR of the same quality. It is possible to climb only the crux first pitch and rap with double ropes but the whole climb is fun and interesting; especially the fourth.

Y2K is located on the north-east corner of the Mescalito. On the approach, spot a pinkish dihedral that has a sharp curve to the right in it. To the right of this dihedral is a bolted face that leads to a roof. This is the route.

P1: 5.10a, 150' Begin atop a large boulder leaning against the face. Climb up past several bolts to the overhang. Turn the overhang (crux) and continue up the crack and face to a bolted belay. The crux is very well protected with a bolt and you can place a good cam just above the bolt.

P2: 5.8, 160' Climb straight up the face to a huge ledge and a double-bolt belay. There are two ledges here; one stepped above the other.

P3: 5.5, 50' Scramble up onto the next ledge and work around to the right. Traverse straight right to a nice belay alcove at the base of a right facing corner and build a gear anchor.

P4: 5.9, 150' Climb the stellar right facing corner. Near the top, the crack goes from thin to non-existent and pro becomes a bit tricky. Step left onto a ledge and belay from the anchors. I'd give this pitch a PG rating but it is superb.

Decent: 3 double rope raps.

Protection 

Lots of bolts but bring a rack of gear from tiny to about 2".


Photos of Y2K Slideshow Add Photo
Right before I found myself in this position, the conversation went something like this:  <br /> <br />My partner: "You're leading the first pitch." <br /> <br />Me: "No, I think you should." <br /> <br />Him: "No, I suck at roofs.  You're leading it." <br /> <br />Me: "I suck at roofs more.  You've gotta lead it.  You're way stronger than me." <br /> <br />Him: "I'm only good at crack climbing.  You'll cruise it.  It's all you!"   <br /> <br />Me: "No dude, who told you that." <br /> <br />Him: "You're leading it!!  Just accept it!!!" <br /> <br />Me: "..." <br /> <br />Photo by Nick W. from Vermont  <br />(our third [but super cool!] wheel) <br /> <br />January 2010
Right before I found myself in this position, the ...
Todd Swain on the First Ascent. Photo Paul Ross
Todd Swain on the First Ascent. Photo Paul Ross
Routes on east face of Mescalito.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on east face of Mescalito.
Maura, pitch 1
Maura, pitch 1
Leading pitch 1 (note gear supplementing bolts).
Leading pitch 1 (note gear supplementing bolts).
East side of Mescalito with Y2K marked
BETA PHOTO: East side of Mescalito with Y2K marked
Andrei heading up the final pitch.
Andrei heading up the final pitch.
Approaching the roof about three quarters up pitch 1.
Approaching the roof about three quarters up pitch...
 First Ascent . Todd Swain on pitch 4.Photo . Paul Ross
First Ascent . Todd Swain on pitch 4.Photo . Paul...
A look up from the first belay at the second pitch (a slightly easier start exists to the left)
A look up from the first belay at the second pitch...
maura, pitch 3 traverse.
maura, pitch 3 traverse.
Overall look at the route (center of picture, the roof on P1 is obvious)
Overall look at the route (center of picture, the ...
Y2K, Pitch 1, 5.10a roof. (Bolt on right)
BETA PHOTO: Y2K, Pitch 1, 5.10a roof. (Bolt on right)
The Start of Y2K.
The Start of Y2K.
Pitch 1
Pitch 1

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 20, 2013
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2004

Watch out for the "Y2K bug" on this route, you need 55 or 60m ropes. We did it with twin 50's, and had to simulclimb the final 15' of the second pitch. It didn't take a genius to see we were in trouble for the descent, this wall is steep and you can't just downclimb the bottom of the pitch. We left a double sling on that anchor and went down, you can be sure the ends were knotted. Due to rope stretch we made it, but by less than 6 feet.

The pitch lengths are not 20th century compliant! Woe to the poor souls who venture on this route with two 150 ft ropes!
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2004

FA (pitches 2-4): Todd Swain, Paul Ross, 1998. The first two pitches have some runouts but Scott is right the crux is well protected.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Feb 21, 2004

There is another belay stance at the end of p3 that has a bolt (and backs up with gear). Unfortuntely, it's about 10 feet below the gear-only stance, and you can't really see the bolt until you're basically at the stance (it's obscured during the traverse by a corner/overlap).

The mental switch from the steep and positive holds on the first two pitches to the insecure traversing of p3 was a challenge.
By John Peterson
Mar 8, 2004

We backed down from the crux. Probably could have aided it but it was getting late and we spend way too much time trying to free it. Didn't seem anywhere near 10a. Next time I'll just aid through and not waste my effort there.

John
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 10, 2004

We climbed this again this past Monday. A few comments on P2: I took note of the rope I had left after pulling up the excess on P2 and it was only about 20'! We had a 60m so this pitch must be closer to 180'. Also, P2 has 3 or 4 bolts and they're hard to see. If you have trouble figuring out which way to go, as the pitch wanders a bit, look for these. This is a long, steep and beautiful pitch as good as anything on CC.
By Drederek
May 6, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed this route 5/02/04. Was comfortable with the pro and appreciated the bolt below the roof. Once I figured the right foot sequence the roof went easily. Did not find P4 to be stellar as it was mostly low 5th.
By 10b4me
May 7, 2004

"Did not find P4 to be stellar as it was mostly low 5th."

So you find quality only in harder routes/pitches? Can 5.5 climbing be "stellar" for you? I've done lots of stellar 4th class climbing; probably even 3rd...
By Drederek
May 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Sorry if i came off as an elitist snob. What could be more stellar than the 3rd-4th class finish of Epinephrine? The last 15 feet of p4 of Y2K was very good but that doesn't make the whole pitch stellar IMHO

I think part of my dissappointment with the pitch in question was my expectations of it after reading about it here. It is an airy pitch with solid rock and some nice moves. Just not "stellar" in my book.
By JKVawter
May 30, 2004

Thought first pitch is the best, but overall a worthwhile route to do to its end. The traverse on 3 is great fun. Only wish there was more. The last pitch is 160 feet. Swain's topo obscures the "1" in 160. The last ten feet of the dihedral are the crux, and more like 5.8. Three straightforward raps to the bottom. We got hung up on the last rap when the rope caught on something about 20-25 feet up, but were able to free it from the ground.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 26, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The P1 roof crux is a tough one to figure out (5.10b/c). I had to climb up and down 3 time before I figured out the move. There is a good crimp in the crack for the left hand, high step with the left, and grab the side pull. Get a knee or foot on the ledge to the right and grab the large bucket. It then reverts back to fun 5.8-5.9 climbing to the anchor.

P2 has two variations off of the belay. Straight up is beautiful face and thin crack climbing 5.8, but poorly protected. (tiny cams and nuts) A 5.6 variation on the left avoids the runout, but make sure you use long slings.

The rap from P4 is known to grab ropes, so be careful.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 8, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought the route was a bit contrived. With the culprit being the traverse. Why when there is a crack going straight up, would you traverse straight right to gain a different crack, that takes you to the same place?

By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

An outstanding route. The key to the roof on the first pitch is a small flake high on the face to the left of the crack. The first time I did this move I didn't see the flake and the move felt harder than 10b. This time it felt easier than 10b and with this beta my 2 followers fired the move with no problem.

Put your right hand on the nice hold about 18 inches up the crack and your left on the flake and work your feet up, eventually pivoting up on your left.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Feb 2, 2006

Pro is a little tricky and sparse going straight up from the anchors on pitch 2 but very fun! I used small gear for the entire pitch. The biggest cam I used for pitch 2 was a #1 cam.
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Super fun route! I can't in good consience gove this a 10a rating. It was a pretty straightforward move. If this is 10a then Chicken Eruptus should be 10d.
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
May 3, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I would say 5.10a if you can wire the two moves over the roof (it took me a couple of tries...but the aforementioned beta is right on...a well placed left crimp and a hidden high left foot are key, step up and grab the high jug with the right hand). Otherwise, the rest of the route runs about 5.8+.
By MJW
From: Boise, ID
Oct 27, 2008

1st pitch: 5.7 buckets to a 5.9+/10a move over the roof...more 5.7
2nd pitch: 5.7+ .Climb straight over the belay for the best rock and experience. There is good pro up and giant holds up there until you get to the first bolt.Stays easy! The rock to either side is chossy.
3rd pitch: Do the traverse into the corner. One bolt for the belay in the corner. Med cams for backup if you wish.
4th pitch: 5.7 fun climbing to the end of the corner. Maybe a 5.8 move up there? Good, small wire pro from big stances. Lots of face holds. NOT 5.9!!!!!!!!!
By jblackattack
From: las vegas, nv
Nov 8, 2008

Fun route enjoyed it thoroughly. My only questions are: why so many bolts on the first pitch compared to the second pitch? When you leave the first belay going straight up, it seemed a bit run out. I found some marginal small wire placements and did not really feel like I got a decent nut in for at least 15ft maybe 20ft up past the belay. The climbing was not all that hard granted, but why bolt the heck out of the first pitch making it literally a sport climb and not have a bolt on the second pitch for about 40ft up? I thought the climbing was very similar on the first two pitches and of similar difficulty other then the pull over the roof of course.
By Lynn S
Apr 6, 2009

Excellent line, pitches 1,2 and 4 are very fun. Pitch 4 was great with good gear in my opinion. If 5.9 is pushing your limit then you may find it exciting making the last couple of moves to easy ground.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 19, 2010

Great fun, mellow climbing on ladder-like holds--so good! The first pitch gives excellent easy warm-up climbing to the imposing-looking roof up high.

It's too bad people have written exact beta on 'how to do' the roof move here--it's much more satisfying to just figure it out yourself for the onsight.

The second pitch provides easy climbing but is exciting and quality due to the very steep nature and sustained exposure throughout much of the pitch. I would also recommend slinging everything long on this pitch to minimize rope drag.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Mar 29, 2010

I'd agree with the 2 1/2 star rating on this. While not classic, it is a pleasant route, which, when combined with something nearby like Dark Shadows, makes for a great full day of climbing at the grade.

Other than the crux(one-move, bolt-protected), nothing on this route felt more difficult than anything on Dark Shadows. It is loaded with super positive holds. Even the 5.9 pitch described as steep and thin had buckets for your feet and sufficient pro.

The beta about the crux move didn't spoil the fun. Even if you know what to look for, you still have to figure out how to make it work for your reach, etc.
By Unboundquark
Mar 31, 2010

I really enjoyed this route. I climbed it a few days ago with Sherri^.

I led P1 & 3, Sherri let P2 & 4. We climbed on twin 60m ropes, had a set of wires and cams to 2". We also had some micros with us but they never got placed, not even on the 4th pitch.

P1 was really nice straightforward climbing. I got up to the roof, clipped the bolt, had a look at the holds that were there... looked for holds that weren't there... looked at my feet... and make the move, It's not a tough move, it's just a matter of figuring out the hands/feet sequence before committing to the move.

The next two pitches weren't as interesting. Good climbing on solid pro.

P4, led by Sherri had so many opportunities for small cam placements on the 4th pitch and I'm not even sure where the micros could have gone.

Overall though... a great route to combine with Dark Shadows on the same day. Although their ratings are 5.10a and 5.8 respectively, I think the two routes were about the same level of difficulty.

-Glenn
By smassey
From: CO
Sep 8, 2010

The p1 anchors are 3/8, but are threaded through the chains, which seems typical of the FA party. Would be a great place for 2 fatty stainless about 6" higher. also, a 7 HB is the $$ piece for the last pitch.
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Crux feels 5.9 if you are tall
By Brent Butcher
Dec 18, 2010

I was on Too many tantrums (right of y2k) and the party on y2k was raining rocks down on us the whole way! How much loose rock does this route have? Is it like that the whole way up?
By Paul Davidson
Feb 15, 2011

Did the route as two parties of two and not a single thing came off.
Loose stuff on the start of the traverse ledge but you'd have to really work it to be knocking stuff off.

Very fun climb, with cold fingers (and being short) I thought the roof was challenging enough but it's just a couple or so moves.
Glad I didn't see this beta first though. Wonder if that side pull is ever going to snap off on some ham fisted climber?

Probably better to climb this a bit later in the spring.
We were ok on 2/13/11 but it was shady and cold rock all day but without wind it was bearable. I'd certainly do it again.

(and many thanks for the hookup Brie and Sam)
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Spectacular first pitch. This pitch is 3-4 stars and deserves being climbed even if you do not wish to finish the route. The middle two pitches are ho-hum. The final pitch has a short, steep, thin section that takes a small RP and perhaps microcam then a bit of a run with no gear on 5.9 terrain - keeps you focused.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Mar 22, 2011

Climbed with Cathy from Toronto on St Patricks Day. I thought it was very good climbing. We did P3 & P4 which was worth doing. Yes, be carefull rapping from P4 but with a little care trouble can be avoided. Don't let it stop you from climbing the whole route.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed pitch 1 today after doing Dark Shadows just to do the roof move that is so talked about here. Didn't think it was very difficult at all. 10a for sure. The good high left hand flake does flex a little bit though. If that ever breaks I'd give it a 10b/c, otherwise 10a and pretty easy to figure out once you look at it. There's a good rest right after too. Going to finish up the route on my next trip ran out of time today.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2011

How did Swain know to traverse right? My guess is, he inspected the route with binocs before beginning his ascent. Probably he also used high res photos of the cliff to assist in drawing the topos in his RR guidebook, that is a great way to get all the cracks in the right place. Hint, hint, to all you aspiring guidebook authors.
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Feb 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Wonderfully fun first 2 pitches...had a smile on m face the entire time. First pitch crux felt very easy for 10a (felt similar to a Gunks 5.9), though.
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed on 03/10/2012. Climb felt 5.7-5.9.
Recommendation: Go straight up on P2 from P1 anchors instead of veering left then up.
Question: Why not go straight up from the anchors at P2 instead of doing the traverse? This would make the climb 3 direct 150-160 ft pitches and the line for P3 looked cool.
By David Stowe
Apr 26, 2012

Climbed first pitch today before getting rained off before starting the second. It a really good pitch the whole way. Felt like allot of 5.7 and the overhang was pretty easy 5.9 at most. Really fun but not 5.10. Great gear the whole way.
By Sharon B.
From: Porltand, OR
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent, interesting route. Please note, the hanger on the left bolt at the top of P4 SPINS. Wish I hadn't checked before the rap, but thought I'd share in case a local has the means to repair/replace. Most of the climb felt like 5.7-5.9 climbing, except the single move on the roof, which is easy enough once you get the sequence right
By Whippin
From: Bend, OR
Mar 20, 2013

got in a pretty solid HB offset #4 (pink) and an ok green c3 at the P4 crux.