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West Side
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Y Tu Brute S 

Y Tu Brute 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Will Wallace
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: Bill Ballace on Feb 2, 2006

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Description 

This climb is located in a gully on the west side of the central tower. Scramble up the gully about 20 feet to reach the start of Y Tu Brute. Climb past finger locks for ten feet to reach a small ledge. From the ledge, ascend good holds to a pod(11b). Wedge your body in the pod for a no hands rest. Were it not for this rest this climb would be significantly harder.

Leave the security of the pod and venture into the business. Twenty five feet of cryptic, balancy, moves on small holds will get you to the anchors(12b).

While at the top check out the climb immediately to the left. Harder and as yet unfinished "Then Fall, Caesar."

Protection 

Approximately 18 bolts to anchors. 60 meter rope mandatory.


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By Scott Sills
Aug 4, 2008

Got up this route recently really liked it even with the crumbly bit. Alias (no onsight). Didn't know rating at the time. Found it to be 12b/c with several difficult clips throught crux. Nice long sequencial technical route my favorite kind! 4 stars even with crumbly band!