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Royal Arches
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1096 T 
Age of Industry S 
Arches Terrace  T 
Arches Terrace Direct T 
Arete Butler T 
Astro Spam T 
Demimonde S 
Double Trouble T 
Endorphine S 
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Greasy but Groovy T 
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Mid-Life Crisis T 
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Royal Arches T 
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 
Royal Flush T 
Royal Perogative T 
Rupto Pac T,S 
Serenity Crack T 
Shaky Flakes T 
Sons of Yesterday T 
Super Slide T 
Surf Nazi T 
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 
Trial By Fire T 
Unnamed 5.3 T 
Unnamed Chimney T 
Violent Bear It Away, The T 
Y Crack T 

Y Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gene Drake (1975)
Page Views: 1,694
Submitted By: Todd Grier on Apr 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Description 

Felt like a sustained 5.9, but i loved the climb.

Protection 

Safe pro, all smaller stuff...nothing big


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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 22, 2007

Not a PG climb, but definitely heads up at the beginning. The climbing isn't hard, but you're up there and committed before you get good pro in. Much better climb than Peruvian Flake, I thought.
By Osprey
From: ...
Nov 26, 2009

Do this climb with one 60 m. rope by escaping left (+/-30ft) via rap rings slung around a tree. Two rappel options from the tree: One, rap the 5.3 corner (great beginner pitch) to the ground 45ft. Two, rap the face down and top rope Royal Flush 5.10b/c 100ft.
By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 12, 2010

Kind of fun, I did this barefoot years ago. Typical Royal Arches area potato chips for feet on slabby rock.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jan 14, 2012

This is one of my favorite pitches in the Royal Arches area. Nicely sustained and great friction. If you like finger jamming you'll love it. Close to the trail too. If it had been included in the Supertopo there would be a line-up at the base every day.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Mar 2, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It is in the SuperTopo guide. At least the newer edition :-)

The lower section was mossy last weekend, which made the start a little more exciting. In the lower section I did find a pocket just wide & deep enough to take a #000 C3 as your first piece, about 15' up & about a body length short of a secure stance with better pro. It might have held a short fall.

The 5.3 corner was fun to mess around on & Royal Flush was a great bonus TR. A ginle 60m rope with a rappel to reach those anchors & then the ground works on those climbs.
By Mareko
From: San Francisco
Apr 8, 2013

Great climb. First piece 20' off the deck. Once you past the tree its a stellar finger crack.
By bud miller
From: SAR site, Camp4
Sep 9, 2013

I would advise to gun the first 10 feet to the stance, place some big gear, then place a high high RED C3 in a lost arrow scar, then gun a few moves to the next big pod, from here it takes perfect gear. I think its actually a good climb for new 5.10 - leaders, especially if done with Peruvian flake.