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Y-Crack Wall

Select Route:
A Dish to Pass S 
Blinded by Lust S 
Dakota Farms Cheese S 
Death of A Salesman T,S 
Eagle Rare T,S,TR 
Early Times S 
Easy Tower Route T 
Green Zipper T 
Little pine T 
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T 
Rebel Yell T,S 
Straight No Chaser T 
Ten High T 
Tower Route S 
West Face of Tower T 
Whiskey a Go-Go S 
Whiskey Chimmney AKA Pigeon Crack T 
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T 

Y-Crack Wall  


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Page Views: 73,195
Administrators: Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 31, 2004
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Description 

This is the crown jewel of Necedah. A Y-shaped crack splits the center of the wall (hence the name) and a few bolted routes exist on either side of the crack. The wall is completely sheer and overhangs at about 20 degrees. Hands down, there is no better cliff for hard climbing in south-central Wisconsin.

To access the top, scramble up the north toe of the formation (fourth class), and around to the east side, also fourth class.

Getting There 

Walking up from the parking area, you will see a prominet tower and a steep cliff. This cliff is the Y-Crack Wall. You can't miss it.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.2 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Y-Crack Wall:
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 50'   
Whiskey Chimmney AKA Pigeon Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   
West Face of Tower   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad   
Tower Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Ten High   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dakota Farms Cheese   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Early Times   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Straight No Chaser   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad   
Rebel Yell   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport   
Death of A Salesman   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Whiskey a Go-Go   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Y-Crack Wall

Featured Route For Y-Crack Wall
The Late Rob Drysdale on lead circa 1989. <br />Photo: D Groth

Straight No Chaser 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall
this great variation to y-crack(aka old and in the way)is a classic lead ,takes good gear and will pump you up.i remember rich got bamboozled into leading this right after he broke his finger in the ditch on zodiac because he thought some rookie was gonna do it before us.great picture to follow....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Y-Crack Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Prunes once again lookin' strong
Prunes once again lookin' strong
The routes on Y-Crack wall.  The Tower is immediately to the left, and Whiskey a Go-Go, etc. are beyond that.
The routes on Y-Crack wall. The Tower is immediat...
Y-Crack Wall Left
BETA PHOTO: Y-Crack Wall Left

Comments on Y-Crack Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 25, 2006
Has anyone out there tried link A Dish to Pass into Death of a Salesman? Thought I would ask...
By Brian Runnells
Mar 19, 2007
That would be really interesting to know. I haven't looked at it too much but does it seem like the line links at all?
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 14, 2011
This is a very fun wall to climb with lots of fun routes. My only complaint is there are not many anchors. With bolts everywhere I don't see the harm in having 2-bolt anchors at the top of trad routes. Even some sport routes do not have anchors... There a few anchors that are shared by up to 5 routes...I don't think that works too well on high traffic days.
By Tradoholic
Aug 15, 2011
Without fear of getting into that argument there's no need for additional bolted anchors because is most cases there's ample gear to be had to set a TR and access is easy to the top. In addition building your own anchor is probably a very good skill for people to have and I've witnessed too many gym gumbies get into trouble because they assume everything will be bolted. Sport routes probably deserve an anchor but trad routes should stay trad.

Specifically what sport climbs do you think need anchors?
By Mike Minehart
From: Waupaca, WI
Sep 19, 2012
If its a sport area, there should be anchors.
By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2012
It's not a sport area.
By Dylan B.
Aug 18, 2013
The anchors on Blinded by Lust are east to access from the top and make an easy rappel. There's also a 4th class, walk-off at the north end. The area doesn't need anchors for the trad climbs.