Explore this area in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Previous Next
GPS: 35.3026, -120.697
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,320 total · 12/month
Shared By: John Knight on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Page Updates (admin only)

Description Suggest change

Y-Crack Wall sits above and left of Jam Crack Wall (Jam Crack Wall is above and left of Garden Wall). Y-Crack Wall is in the sun most of the morning and early afternoon. The area has great views, nice exposure and never any crowds. Climbs include Y-Crack (an offwidth 5.8/5.9), Rovert (5.10 face climb) and several top rope variations.

Getting There Suggest change

To get to the base of Y-Crack Wall, climb something on Jam Crack Wall then either rap to the base of Y-Crack or scramble across to the top and rap down.

1 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Y-Crack Area Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Sun Angles Details:
Sun Details Unknown. Know About It?

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

Photo showing general area of Y-Crack, Jam Crack Wall, Midnight Spire, Garden Wall, and some of the Summit Blocks. Only a portion of the routes are shown.
Photo showing general area of Y-Crack, Jam Crac…
 0
Y-Crack & Jam Crack Wall<br> <br> Approach by heading to Garden Wall then continuing up and left. The first climb you come to should be the obvious, overhanging off-width crack (“Sgt. Pepper’s”). <br> <br> A. Rovert 5.10a TR Move up the ramp a bit, then follow the brown streak to the top. Approach the base by climbing Private Pepper and moving left mid route. Alternatively, approach by rapping in from the top of “Y-Crack” (gear needed for anchor). TR – Ivan Jasinovich, Bob Little, John Merriam, 1988.<br> <br> B. Why Climb? 5.10a TR. About half way between Rovert and Y-Crack. FA – unknown.<br> <br> C. Y-Crack 5.9 Small to large gear. Bring a big cam (4”) for the crux. Move left at the “Y” or bail out right for an easier time. Alternatively, you can TR by rapping in from the top of the crack (bring gear and long slings to set up TR). FA – Chris Moes & Ken Klis, 1986.<br> <br> D. Private Pepper 5.7 1 bolt + small to medium gear. Start at the notch between Midnight Spire and the far left side of Jam Crack Wall. FA – John Knight & Chris Manning, 2008.<br> <br> E. Fester Finger 5.11 TR Starts about 15’ left of “Sgt. Pepper’s.” Very thin and very steep. TR – Hans Florine & Mike Lopez, 1987.<br> <br> F. Sergeant Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Hand Jam 5.10b 1 bolt + small to large gear. A very challenging offwidth and off-balance crack. Bring your largest cam (4”+) to protect the crux. Continue up to the top by clipping one bolt and inserting gear or move left after the overhang and rappel or TR off the “Fester Finger” anchors. FA – Tobin Sorenson (solo), late ‘70s. <br> <br> G. Revolver Arête 5.11 TR Stay right of “Sgt. Pepper’s” on the arête. Thin, overhanging, and off-balance. Work your way up as you try and fight the barn--door effect. Set up the TR by leading “Private Pepper” or “Sgt. Pepper’s” and then rapping down to “Revolver” anchors. TR – Ken Klis & John Knight, 2008. <br> <br> H. Chimney Climbs TR Various chimney and face climbs can be top roped from the “Revolver” anchors. A bit loose, but worth checking out someday. Bring your helmet. TR – J. Knight, Matt Geyer & Ken Klis, 2008.<br>
Y-Crack & Jam Crack Wall Approach by heading…
 0
Topo showing Y-Crack (5.8/5.9), Rovert (5.10), and one of the top rope options.
Topo showing Y-Crack (5.8/5.9), Rovert (5.10),…
 0

0 Comments