Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) 

first t.r. unknown ,first lead:steve sangdahl and rob lemon

aka "Old and in the Way". Do others think the 5.10c rating is accurate? I have always thought it felt more like 5.10d/11a, but maybe that's just me.

yeah jay,i agree.this always felt harder than 5.10c,perhaps 5.10d/5.11a is more accurate.but then again maybe we are just weak.peace and fuk-nes

Steve,I think on lead, with the pump factor, this route is definitely harder than .10c. Maybe on TR, when you don't have to place any pro, the .10c rating is accurate.

Its true, I may be weak, but I know a 5.11 when I see one.

What's up guys? Just wanted to throw in my bit.

Now, it's important for anyone reading this post to understand that my hardest lead is 5.10b - Watermarks Direct - with a fall, and I've never been to Necedah.

My point is that ratings in WI, no matter where in WI, tend to be stiff. Just plain stiff.

Sometimes 5.8s or 5.9s feel like 11's, depending on the style or moment or attitude. But wouldn't you agree that it is SO SWEET when you go somewhere outside WI - crag or BIG WALL - and get on something that you believe, based on your WI experience, to be at your limit, yet it feels familiar?

That is nice!!

I like the sand-bag-ness of WI because it allows you to go anywhere - and I mean anywhere - and KNOW the level at which you can climb.

That's the beauty of calling a climb like Upper D 5.9(not even +), where I've witnessed "5.10 leaders" hang on gear only 2/3 of the way up.

I STRIVE every day to get better so I can feel cruiser on 5.9 in WI. V3s and V4s rock my world - in WI. In other places, these levels are simple.

Thanks for maintaining this great site - and for letting me rant.

Cheers to stiff ratings and relativity,

Nick

this was first top-roped in the late 70's by either pete cleveland or ralph schimdt...first lead in 1981 by steve s. and rob lemon. this is an awesome route and one of the best in the midwest..period.

Just got on this for the first time last Sunday. WATCH OUT! The hornets are C.R.A.Z.Y. this time of year. They warm themselves on the sunny faces during midday. Anyway; awesome route, and way more over-hanging than I had thought looking up from the ground.

Very awesome route but yes I was there last fall and the hornets were lovin that rock more than me. Gotta love the mosquito heaven on the way up to the rock! Bring bug spray...but the bugs back off when you get to the cliffs and the breeze is blowin.

Steve,

Why are you giving this route an "R" rating? I ask because many think that it's the best protected 5.10+/11- climb in southern Wisconsin.

I am wondering the same thing Jay. I sent Steve a message asking him what his reasoning is.

update: Steve said he must have been tired, took the R rating away and agreed it was a very protectable lead.

No harder than 10c...
When compared to: "Outer Limits" (10c):Valley; "Lunatic Fringe" (10c):Valley; "Reed's Pinnacle Direct" (10a):Valley; 5.10 pitches on the "Rostrum":Valley; "Illusion Dweller" (10b):J-tree; "Clean and Jerk" (10c):J-tree; "O'kellys Crack" (10d/11a):J-tree; "Split Pillar" pitch (10b) on the "Grand Wall":Squamish. etc...etc...etc...
These are part of the frame of reference for grading 5.10 crack climbs. (Note: All of the above routes are classic and should be climbed at some point in your life)
Overall: Super-fun-classic-route.

a must do.

What exactly should be racked for this?
1-set of stoppers?
Singles/doubles cams? to BD #2 (hands)?
Thanks~

At 1st I wondered why everyone placed so much gear on this... Then I climbed it. It's VERY sustained. I don't think you can pack much more 5.10c in a climb. I'm excited to give it another go.