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The south side of the Y canyon has fewer climbs, but some are very good. This side of the canyon is shaded all the time, so this is a great choice in the summer. It's less convenient compared to the north side of the Y, since you don't hike past the top of the cliff on the approach. (To reach the clifftop to build or remove anchors, scramble up 3rd class ledges to the right of the rightmost route (Little Roof).
Hike into the Y canyon, and cross over to the south side of the canyon (cross the streambed when you're almost at the big cave on the north side).
3 Total Routes
Featured Route For Y - South Side
This climb has a nice slick start consisting of a thin finger crack and some varnished foot placements that ascend leftward to a good underclinging finger crack which offers good gear placements to protect the crux moves. Then grab the sharp edge of a jugular shelf that is heel hooked and mantled to a bolt with no hanger, use a nut that can be a stopper cinched onto the bolt for pro, or better yet, use a bolt hanger and bring a nut that fits a 3/8 stud bolt. Don't forget to clean the hanger when...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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