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The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Crack, The T 
Boondoggle T 
Byrd Pinnacle Left T 
Feather S 
Friar, The T 
J + J Groove T 
Lemon Bomb T 
Red Zinger T 
Skyline T 
Trim T 
Unknown T 
V Formation T 
Whoosh T 
Wrangler Hero? T 
Xyphoid Fever T 
Xyphoid Left T 
Unsorted Routes:

Xyphoid Fever 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Herbst & Co.
Season: Winter/Early Spring
Page Views: 772
Submitted By: John Wilder on Apr 9, 2010

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Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


This route climbs the obvious offwidth roof about 100' up on the crag. Named for the uniqueness of the climbing- this is one of joe's neater little gems out there.


Middle of Byrd Pinnacle, rap from the bolted anchor above the roof, one rope, i believe.


Standard rack- bring a #4 camalot or two, maybe a #5 (C4) for the roof.

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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 9, 2010

The roof of the route is visible in the picture of Byrd Pinnacle Left on this page. Burly fun, I had to lower off and let Gabe lead it at the time...still not sure i could do it today!
By JJ Armstrong
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Take a #5.
By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2011

Handren's guide lists a 5.9 variation that goes up the left-facing corner to the left of the roof. Some enjoyable crack climbing to be had. We TR'd this after climbing Byrd Pinnacle left.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Nov 9, 2011

this offwidth is very hard, if you can send this it is official: YOU can climb offwidths! LOL i've tried it 3 times and still haven't a clue how to put it together...

cassondra's right, the 5.9 variation is killer and is a great warm-up if you've come to send the zinger

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 18, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The surprising thing about this route is... no offwidth crack technique is needed save or maybe one or two foot cams. Crimps, baby, crimps. Look inside and see what you find. Sorry to spoil all the onsight attempts out there!
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Nov 30, 2012

Yeah, if it weren't for the crimps you'd definitely need to be a decent, anyway, offwidth climber. That'd be rad if you didn't use them. Would probably have to invert? But whatever. Fun either way
By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 4, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'll say, if you're short, or climb short, you definitely have to have some offwidth technique, both to enter and to pull around the roof. I needed to anyway; no crimps only for me!
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