In my opinion, if you start and finish this route with the Deville 3 route, it's definitely a 3-star route and better than the full line of Deville 3. The second pitch is spectacular face climbing with just enough gear.
P1 starts at the left side of the SW face of the spire. Look for a long, small roof. Begin in a short, shallow, LF corner, then move up and left with uninspiring gear to the corner of the formation. Clip a good bolt, then make a short 5.9- move. The clip is made from a very tenuous stance and by itself might warrrant an "s" rating. Continue on easier ground to the left side of a large pillar and belay.
Variation to P1- the first 1 and 1/2 pitches of Deville 3: any number of starts (the easiest moves in from the right) gains the very right edge of the long roof. Fun, 5.7 face climbing leads up and left. Stretch the rope into the upper reaches of Xenomorph's first pitch and the pillar belay.
P2-ascend a LF corner, clip a bolt above (last gear for 10-15 feet), and make airy 5.9- moves on and just to the right of the sharp NW corner of the formation. Continue with moderate climbing to an exposed ledge. A variation steps around the NW corner from the belay, ascends a 5.9 crack, then steps back below the bolt.
P3- 3 options: 1) straight up on good holds, low fifth class; 2) traverse considerably right to an easy LF corner, or 3) by far the best option-climb the thin crack and vertical face in between options 1 and 2. Exposed, excellent 5.7+ (the last pitch of the route Deville 3).
This isn't the best protected route. Bring a light, standard rack with the emphasis on thin protection.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 7, 2002
1st pitch is quite licheny after the bolt. Move left after clipping the bolt and then up. This pitch definitely detracts stars.
|By S. Kimball|
Jul 13, 2003
This strangely beautiful climb is a bit of a scarefest. Charles wonders if a potential 25ft. ground fall warrants an "S"? The gear placements below 1st. pitch clip and above 2nd. pitch's lone bolt, are specific and solitary, #0 or 00 Metolius, then #1.5 Friend. Climbing upper 1st. pitch is not squeaky clean but enjoyable and well protected. After pitch #2's vertical and spooky crux, traversing left onto the incline ledge of "No Respite" makes a good belay.