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 ADVANCED
Saddle Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block/Gully Var. S 
Christmas Chronicle S 
Last Dance S 
Richard's Rift T 
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 
Route 3 S 
Route 4 S 
Route 4 1/2 T 
Route 5 S 
Route 6 S 
Route 7 T,S 
Route 8 T,S 
Route 9 S 
Xeno Dance S 

Xeno Dance 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Wolfe/Vasquez
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

Route just to the right of Route#3. A fun wandering route that follows varied natural features. Starts up a right-leaning crack then traverses left across the face to the top. Crux is sidestepping left across a series of xenoliths (pebbles) to get to the left-hand crack.

Location 

Route in between route #3 and #4.

Protection 

Draws. A couple of longer runners will reduce rope drag on the traverse. Chain anchors. Rap, lower or walk off.


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By JeffMK
Jul 3, 2011

Pretty cool... there are 2 old pitons hammered in on this route about 3/4 way up.
By Maidy
Apr 8, 2012

Actually the "old" pitons were new pitons - which we have now been replaced with a single bolt in a better position.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I like this climb and would happily repeat it.