X 5.9+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Wayne Crill and Matt Samet |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Wayne Crill on Dec 4, 2007 |
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Description Climb straight up the middle of the face over a bulge past two cracks and continue on positive, incut flakes to a ledge and a tree belay with slings. The rock quality improves, the difficulty increases, and the gear becomes more sparse as you ascend the face. There is sufficient protection to be found, probably only jalepeņo spicy. This route was led ground up 12/1/07.
I guess we've got a 4 star system here, so I'm thinking two stars. We both thought it one of three stars, probably two of three with some traffic. This S.facing route makes a good winter warm up.
We *believe* this to be the first lead of this line after discussion with local authorities, but of course, you just never know, especially with the moderate grade and relatively obvious line.
Location This route begins in a small alcove just above the trail down and around the corner R. of Positively 4th St. and climbs the vertical face just L. of the large, R.-facing dihedral of Working Class Hero. This southerly exposed face is quite distinctive from the trail just below and approaching Pos.4th St. with 2 cracks forming an X across it at mid height. Rap off the tree with slings to the ground.
Protection Standard Eldo rack with an long sling for a horizontal flake to protect the final moves.
By Brad Durbin
Jan 21, 2008
| Nice addition Wayne. One might think that after leading or TR'ing this line that it could warrant a 10-, however, after doing many of the other lines in this area including Air Mail, it probably should only be a 9+. Plenty of gear until the final moves. Be prepared to sling the flake about 3/4 of the way up. Gets sun first thing so a good warmup on cold days. Two stars. Fun, vertical climbing. |
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