Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
9. Chimney Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abyss, The 
Boy Howdy 
Bushmaster 
Horizontal Tango, The 
In and Out 
Jugs of Whine AKA Magic Carpet Ride 
Poika 
Roofs 
Seduction and Rejection 
X 
Y 
Z 
Unsorted Routes:

X 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 768
Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Oct 26, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
On lead during a hot summer day.

Description 

X is the crack route at the right edge of Chimney Buttress's large roof. Start up the left side of the crack eventually moving to its right side. Continue over the small roof (crux) and up on easier terrain.


Protection 

Very protectable with nuts, medium to small cams, and hexes for the old schoolers or use a standard Blue Mounds toprope (long slings helpful).



Photos of X Slideshow Add Photo
X, Y, Z, and Neil.
X, Y, Z, and Neil.
JL climbing X on a nice day.  Check out the sea of green.
JL climbing X on a nice day. Check out the sea of...
leading up X
BETA PHOTO: leading up X
Comments on X Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyson S Arp
Feb 16, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I think this is a little harder than 5.7. I noticed last time I lead it that the footholds are much more polished than they used to be, so I can't see changing the rating from the original 5.8+ to 5.7.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Mar 8, 2007

Where did you find an "original" rating of 5.8+? Compared to other 5.7s at Blue Mounds I don't think it's any more difficult and the feet are solid.

By Tyson S Arp
Mar 8, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

By "original" I am referring to the rating in the first guidebook for the park called "Prairie Walls" by Don Hynek & Eric Landmann. This book was published in 1989 and reprinted in 1993. Since then, ratings have been changed for many routes in the newer guidebooks that include Blue Mounds. Interestingly, however, most ratings have been bumped up recently and not down. Yes, it may not be an 8+, but I do think it is harder than Obvious Crack and Old Stump which are both 7's.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Mar 9, 2007

Ah, I've looked through the Hynek & Landmann guidebook before but don't own it. Regarding the overall grades at BM I've always felt they were definitely "old school".....a 5.9 here is usually a 5.10 elsewhere.

By kcomptalon95
Sep 6, 2010

fun climb! i would have to rate it at a 5.8 as well. significantly more difficult than other 5.7s at this crag. good protection, but wish i had some smaller nuts than what i brought up

By Pete Hunt
Jan 13, 2012

Nice lead with good pro. Bring a set of nuts for the numerous constrictions in the crack. Cams from .75" to 1" are also useful.