Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral 

FA:  Steve Arsenault, Charlie Fowler, and Mike Munger, 1977 Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV Season:  Summer Views: 54 page views Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 1, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Hanging in August 2009 East Fork Valley with the A...

Description 

Finding this route is not a problem for the Winds due to its distinctive appearance, but route finding up high on the route may be somewhat tricky as essentially one encounters no fixed gear up this long line. We did the route in 9 long (every pitch >50m) pitches. Very sustained and complicated by lots of grass hummock filled hand cracks leaves one to ponder how rarely this classic for the area gets ascended.

The last strenuous pitch is a pump! It is testament to the Arsenault Fowler team strength that rated it a mere 5.9!!

Location 

Gash Peak is North Ambush or the high point immediately to the north of Ambush. a very committing route once high, descend on the ridge line to the saddle just south of Ambush back to the East Fork Valley.

Protection 

Full set of Camalots from C3 to #5 ad set of nuts. Some piton belays found low on the route. Arsenault told me up in the cirque that he always carries a hammer with a few pins on Ambush...mostly to refix the ones in situ, however, you won't find many pins on this route.