Curt Shea on the 8+ crux of "Big House," Upper Bla...
Description
Located on Long John's Tower. To access this wall just locate the 8 Ball formation and park near its base. The parking area is totally trashed with burnt up logs and broken glass.
Big House is north facing and is about 30' to the left of Becker. It is very apparent from a distance and appears to split the wall in half. I thought this climb was excellent! Heel and Toe rated this climb a 5.7, but I think its rating is closer to 5.8+. The climb starts in a corner which moves up to a nice hand crack through an overhang/bulge (crux). After the bulge, the climb widens to OW then chimney and finishes at a double bolt/ring belay.
Protection
Pro extra hand size to #4 Camalot. 2 bolt/ring anchors.
By Jeremy Nelson From: Fort Collins, CO Aug 12, 2007 rating: 5.8+
Great route with fun stems and good jams. No way this is 5.7 (even for Vedauwoo). The crux bulge is short, but nevertheless it's strenuous and at least 5.8 and probably 5.9 (unless you've either got big hands or are unusually comfortable with fist jams). Protects well. Really satisfying.
By Mike D From: Fort Collins, CO Aug 14, 2007 rating: 5.8
A good route, #4 Friend is the largest piece I used. The rating in Kelman's book seems fair at 5.8.
By didieat From: Laramie, Wyoming May 19, 2009 rating: 5.8
It does seem pretty stout for 5.7. I would rate it 5.8 through the short crux. I didn't find it to be nearly as asthetic as Baobab Tree, but an ok climb nonetheless. Use caution at the top around the chockstones, they will rain down pebbles on your belayer.
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