A classic sandbag for some one who has no off-with experience, and a cakewalk for someone who does. It was one of my first wide leads, and I sent it in epic fashion. It starts with a sort of dihedral off-with, to a ledge, to a chimney, to a couple hand jams to another chimney with a crack in the back, to a neat sandy bowl shaped belay ledge.
Location
An obvious chimney/off-with climb in the alcove about 20 yards left of Climb and Punishment.
Protection
Protecting this climb is a little tricky, the first section (though only 5.7) may deserve a PG rating with out big bros. Big bros could be useful but would probably be overkill. The best pro I found all the way up was hand and finger size. Two bolt anchor.
Do not continue straight up after the first offwidth chimney, turn left up a crack/chimney or you will find yourself on harder/scarier climbing. Using the description on this page go up the dihedral, turn right at the ledge, go up the chimney, then bear left when you have three choices of chimney/cracks to pick from. Also I used two number 4 and two number 5 Black Diamond C4s on this climb, they definitely came in handy.
RSS Feed
