Rick Sanders just getting to the easier section in...
Description
On the Rat Brain next to Kim is a proud fatty. This has got to be one of the hardest 9s I've ever seen. Sustained with a tricky pod fairly low that is hard to get gear into(I wish Wild Country made a #7 Friend), but it is possible to toprope if you want practice suffering.
Totally agree on the #7!!!!! This is another one of those famous routes credited to my earlier stage of learning to climb. I watched my friend Kevin suffer and bleed on this with nothing bigger as far as cams than a #3.5 camalot and no big bros. I think we had a set of curved hexes. But once you're in the crack your in. there's no escape.....
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jul 7, 2002 rating: 5.9+
In July of 2002 (7/5/02) this crack was pretty full of birdy doo. I wanted to climb it, but after having a good look, decided that it was not important to me.
I think Mr. Bubb is thinking of Skull. This is a clean, crack with no bird doo.A classic moderate ow.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Sep 22, 2004 rating: 5.9+
I did end up doing the route in 5/15/2004. The Anon poster is correct- it was clean of PooPoo at that time. I know wasn't thinking of Skull when I said that though, I think in 2002 there was poopoo. Skull is not on this section of rock & I checked it out independantly on another occasion. Skull was closed this summer by a handwritten "raptor" note at the base.In 2004, I found Fantasia was a decent route, strenuous, and unprotected down low without tubes/big-bros, due to it's very large size starting off. Pretty fun overall.
Great route! The crux at the beginning does protect with small cams in the horizontal crack, just bring some runners. This gives you pro at your waist for pulling into the crack. Be sure not to blow your big gear too early like me or you'll be faced with a big runout.
Great route. I got to follow Trever on this last weekend and thought it was one of the best offwidths I'd climbed. 4 #5s and a #4 seemed to be right for the gear.
By taimi From: Longmont, CO Jun 1, 2008 rating: 5.9+
When we went up it (5/30/08), there was a fair amount of dried blood on the rock, testifying to the Total Thrutchfest nature of the route. As so often the case at Vedauwoo, getting into the blasted crack was the crux for me--but I'm short, and that can make a difference. Once in the crack, it's a great offwidth, truly a lot of fun. I didn't lead it, so can't testify to gear....
By Tyler Smeenk From: Laramie, WY Jan 20, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Just wanted to thank whoever left a BD #6 on this route a couple of years ago, I have enjoyed it immensely!