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Routes in Poland Hill
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Ape Walk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bear Voo, The T V8 7B |
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Bistro, The 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ |
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Boulder Hopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Clean and Jerk T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Clean and Press T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cool Jet T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Cumulus V10- 7C+ |
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Escape From Vaudeville S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Estrogen Patch Remover T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fantasia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green With Envy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ |
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Kim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Orbital Ridge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overload T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Petit Crapon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Piece of Dirt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Remote Control T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soul of a Poet V5 6C |
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Southwest Friction S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stem Christie T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Sugar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sweet Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tanfasia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Toadstool V2-3 5+ |
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Underachiever T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown (approach to Kim) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3 |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Tim Rangistch |
| Page Views: | 4,784 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Darin Lang on Jul 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Piece of Dirt is located on the "Rat Brain" section of Poland Hill, on top and to the right as you approach. It is the first route of any substance to the right of the obvious, right-angling, Kim crack, and is an equal distance to the left of the classic and equally obvious, plumbline offwidth Fantasia. Once you get up to the Rat Brain (done by circling around to the east of Poland Hill and then following your nose up some slabs), the route will be the reasonably clear line of fairly new bolts (in 1999) following the right side of a large, semi-circular flake to a slab above.
Launch yourself into a full-on lieback on the flake, clipping the first three bolts in the process (10-). Make sure you are solid before pulling up rope for the clips - it's easy to blow it and launch yourself from this position. Make the transition from lieback to vertical slab (crux), and then follow the slab past two more bolts to a bolted anchor up and right. Although the rope drag leaves something to be desired, can be TR'd by leaving the last bolt clipped as a directional.
Launch yourself into a full-on lieback on the flake, clipping the first three bolts in the process (10-). Make sure you are solid before pulling up rope for the clips - it's easy to blow it and launch yourself from this position. Make the transition from lieback to vertical slab (crux), and then follow the slab past two more bolts to a bolted anchor up and right. Although the rope drag leaves something to be desired, can be TR'd by leaving the last bolt clipped as a directional.
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