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The Central Scrutinizer 

5.11

   

FA: Sam Lightner Jr and Penn Burris in like 1987
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Season: summer, whatever day it falls on.
Views: 159 page views

Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 7, 2008


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Description 

The route follows a thin crack to three bolts on a face.
At the time it seemed hard, like 11+, but shoes were not designed for face climbing then... it's probably a lot easier.
The name came from the war that was going on in the American climbing scene. Veedauwoo was a bastion of anti-sport climbing, yet we put this up on rappel. There was much talk that one of the big players was gone up whoop us for it... turned out he liked the route.


Location 

Off the ledge at the southwest end of the Nautilus above TTL.


Protection 

I can't remember. I do recall an RP high in the crack.



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By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 8, 2008

Seems like a strange route name, and now that I've seen it twice in 2 different areas (Red River Gorge being #2) named by different parties, I assume there is some pop or literary reference.

Pray tell, what is the story?

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
Dec 9, 2008

Yeah, we listened to Zappa's Joes Garage a lot at that time. It was also about this time that Tipper Gore was pushing for the ratings on albums and Zappa and Dee Snyder were the guys who testified to Congress.
The Central Scrutinizer narrates the album and "enforces all the laws that haven't been passed yet."