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Deep Throat 

5.10a

   

FA: John Garson, 1975
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 373 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Apr 23, 2008


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Description 

Varied climbing in a deep flare. Starts out offwidth, then thins to hands at the overhanging crux. Great stemming practice. Rock is a little rough, which along with the flare makes placing protection somewhat strenuous. In all a fun climb.


Location 

On the Southeast corner of Ted's Trot Block. Right of The Central Scrutinizer, left of Bombay. The dihedral in which this climb is located generally faces south.


Protection 

Stoppers to #4 Camalot. #5 and #6 Camalot nice, but not required. One of each should be enough. Be prepared to fight with crystals and a flared crack when trying to place gear. Belaying from the rappel bolts on top of the block prevents the rope from jamming in the bulge. Otherwise, you could build an anchor with hand-sized cams.


Addendum 

This route submission name was changed to orphaned due to the nature of the internet and links it created.