Cornelius (5.5) on Nautilus at Vedavoo Rocks in Wy...
Description
This route is located about 2 minutes from the parking lot and is next to Easy Jam. Follow a trail around to the left of the Nautilus until a dihedral is found (Easy Jam) with a beautiful finger crack curving up and to the right. Climb the finger crack and belay at a shelf 30-40 feet up. A walkoff can be found by going to the right, squeezing through a small hole, and descending a easy chimney.
Protection
This is a short pitch, and it eats up as much gear as you can stuff in it. It could easily be lead on a set of nuts, but aliens or small cams are also very useful.
Another walkoff is to go far right (past the Three Sisters area) to an obvious walk-off. Don't go left or straight ahead to a small hole w/chimney. That's Candlestick (5.7) which I doubt you'd want to downclimb.
We decended via the bolts at the top of etude to the left/right hand on the opposite side of the Nautilus. From the plateau at the top of the climb its an easy walk there. This is also an easy way to toprope either of these climbs. There are no bolts left on these climbs and being slab climbs therefore unprotectable.
I'm just curious as to why bolts were added to the top of this climb, yesterday June 14. There is a good place to build an anchor at the top of the climb.
Were the bolts added on Sunday (7/14)? I had a group of scouts up there most of Saturday, and didn't see them...
Also - does the crack on the slab just to the right of Cornelius (left-arching line which joins Cornelius about 10 feet below the top) have a name? Short, but a fun little sequence of perfect hand jams.
First, whoever put bolts on this really needs an attitude adjustment. With a #6 friend. WTF. There is not a single reason for those to be there. The anchor is piss-easy to set, the walk off is of similar difficulty to the approach, and this hasn't needed bolts at any point in the 30+ years since it was originally climbed.
Second, the right variant doesn't have a name, so far as I'm aware of, but it goes at about 5.8 if you start from the ground and do the face below to get to the crack, rather than traversing in from the start of Cornelius.
I completely agree about the attitude adjustment, and hope that someone will cleanly remove the bolts in the near future. As you say, it is ridiculously easy to build an anchor on top - with almost whatever rack you happen to be carrying (I think I used a couple stoppers and a mid-sized hex, but there are many, many, many choices.)
To whatever kind soul removes the bolts: please pull, rather than chop! That will keep the slap looking nice, and avoids leaving sharp nasties sticking out for novice climbers.
Per the right crack - I traversed in from the left, and that's harder than Cornelius, but much easier than 5.8. The crack itself is easy - 5.6 if Cornelius is 5.5. I didn't try the wall immediately below the right crack, but the face to the left (below Cornelius) seemed quite a bit harder than 5.8.