Hesitation Blues 

The anchors at the top of pitch 2 was suitable to lower off to the two bolt belay atop pitch 1.

Great route, probably harder during the first ascent as the rock has sinced cleaned up from folks climbing it. I find the 11b rating off compared to some other 11b Veedauwoo climbs. Example would be if you compare this to one if it's neighbor climbs, Ghost Dance which is also rated 11b. I think you will find Ghost Dance substantailly harder.. Now if one and which one should have it's rating changed I will leave open to comment.

If you watch the rope drag you can lead this thing in one pitch to the top. Need some slings and a long sling for when you move left at the top of the crack.

The anchor atop P2 is 2 good nuts and an old punded angle, all lovingly equalized with a single link. Bring some webbing if ya' like. Or perhaps a drill and bolts?

I used to think the grade on this was a bit soft, then last summer I got on it and almost got my ass handed to me on a platter. The upper half is burly and beautiful.

Truly a classic Voo crack. Sadly the first pitch is over rated, but the second is right on. With its big moves and tricky stems, it holds the grade. As for the anchors, the webbing is a little scary, oh well.

Pitch 2 is a classic, must-do at the grade. Well worth the technical first half.

The upper pitch can be stemmed and climbed without a single jam, which feels much less burly.

Did the first pitch last night and set up a TR for some friends. Technical and sequency 5.10. The 2nd pitch looks amazing!! Planning to go back and get on it soon...

So, why are there nice anchors 1/2 way up the pitch and tat at the end?

The first ascent was done by Chick Holtkamp.

First Ascent was Chick Holtkamp and Bob Yoho, Chick led it first.

This route is amazing, the best I have climbed at the grade in Vedauwoo. Definitely combine both pitches. The first pitch if good but the second pitch is the icing on the cake. I found the second pitch to be mostly good hands which is a #2 Camalot for me.