An excellent line. About 100 feet Right of Captain Nemo is an alcove/dihedral area. The first pitch climbs the obvious corner (bit hard to get into) then follows the nice handcrack up the slabs to the right. Place some good pro before heading around / under the bulge, look for features on the right face. Belay at the good shelf. Second pitch uncomfortably enters the offwidth to the left. One or two large pieces will protect the section. Continue above the ledges in another wide crack (#3 Camalot in crack to the right) to 'summit' ledges. Anchor with medium to small pieces. Walk off (scramble up and walk off to the southeast).
Protection
Standard rack including wider gear for the last pitch (could possibly get by with just 2 #3 Camalot's on the last pitch, but a #4 recommended).
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Jun 10, 2003 rating: 5.6
You can also proceed from the top of the off-width directly to a 2 bolt rap anchor and go that way. While not obvious, if you keep walking left (that is, in a straight line away from the belay) you will reach the bolts. Much easier than the walkoff.
Rappelling is much easier if you can find the bolts. But you MUST HAVE A FULL 60M ROPE to get down from there.
And I would recommend bringing some much bigger pieces for that 2nd pitch. I'm not even sure how you could fit 2 #3s in there... maybe with really long arms? My husband walked a #4 through the "thinnest" parts of the crack, and even set the green big bro in the top of the flake. A #6 might have made getting into the ow a bit less stressful.
By Paul Carlson From: fort phil collins, co Jul 19, 2009 rating: 5.6
A red Wild Country (#5) and a BD #4 worked well on the second pitch.
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Sep 21, 2009 rating: 5.6
I did well with a #4 Friend, and a #4 and #5 C4. Over all, I took a double set from #0.75 C4 to #3 C4, with the afore-mentioned bigger stuff. The crux is brief, and just a shade harder, move-for-move, than Upper Slot Right. Just don't get your knee stuck.
There are also chains on top of the Thin Man Chimney which is the analogue of the top chimney thing of Horticulture. Beta on that rappel on the Deception page.
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