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Routes in Nautilus
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Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Republic, The V10 7C+ |
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Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Practice Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C |
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Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 |
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Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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New Mutant T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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30 is the New 20 T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Octagon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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In the Groove T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hello Stupid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Infant Son T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pretty S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Belly Flop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+ |
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Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+ |
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Cupcake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5 |
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Deterioration / Unknown V1+ 5 |
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E-D V7 7A+ |
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Hand Jam Traverse aka V1 Traverse V1 5 |
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Heel to Toe V4- 6B |
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In The Dark T V2-3 5+ |
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Lucky You T V6 7A |
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Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+ |
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Shotgun Willy V8 7B |
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Slab and Grab V4 6B |
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Slab Stealer T V4 6B |
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Soak'em In Cider V5+ 6C+ |
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Sun Up To Sundown V6 7A |
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Tempest V10 7C+ |
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Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5 |
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Unknown Mantle V2 5+ |
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Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A |
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Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+ |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 33,227 total · 115/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Levin on Aug 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Wide cracks have a well-deserved reputation for being one of the more difficult genres in our sport. I suspect this is due to the simple observation that in wide crack climbing, technique goes a long way. Struggling up a wide crack without technique is like climbing a steep trail on skiis- without wax: just plain miserable.
Locate Easy Jam by heading left from the parking lot, and wandering through the maze of boulders to a short slab with a nice-looking diagonal crack in it (Cornelius, 5.5, excellent). Just left is this wide crack challenge.
Wear protective clothing- minimizing pain or discomfort is a good place to start. Now decide which side of your body you want to have inside the crack. Think which orientation allows for the most friction (often very helpful) while reducing any awkwardness. In leaning wide cracks it is often advantageous to have your back against the lower angle side, so that rests can easily be found by leaning back (as opposed to being forced up against the crack). For this route you will want your left side in.
Arrange your gear on a sling, so there is nothing on your harness to get caught.
Keep in mind that in wide cracks and chimneys you can often optimize your body position to provide added security. Done properly, it is hard to fall out of a wide crack, although the tendency for the leader is to get too deep in a wide crack, which is not always the easiest way to climbing one.
The secret to wide cracks is focusing on your lower body. It is the legs that do most of the pushing and stabilizing. Use your arms to maintain your position. For this climb, heel-toe jams with the left foot work well. You can also torque your left knee to help. Arm bar with your left, and move systematically: secure your arms position, then release your lower body (legs, feet) and slide them to a higher position. Now lock them in, and slide up (don't pull) with your upper body by pushing with your legs. Lock the upper body and repeat.
This climb is a little runout, but short. If in doubt, try it on tr.
A nice progression on the Nautilus for learning wide cracks is: Easy Jam 5.4, Baldwin's Chimney 5.4, Right Parallel Space 5.5, Piton Perch 5.6, Slit 5.7, Hamburger Crack 5.7, Candlestick 5.7, Upper Slot 5.7+. Remember that, unfortunately, easier wide cracks tend to be squeezes, and are often poorly protected, so take this progression slowly.
Locate Easy Jam by heading left from the parking lot, and wandering through the maze of boulders to a short slab with a nice-looking diagonal crack in it (Cornelius, 5.5, excellent). Just left is this wide crack challenge.
Wear protective clothing- minimizing pain or discomfort is a good place to start. Now decide which side of your body you want to have inside the crack. Think which orientation allows for the most friction (often very helpful) while reducing any awkwardness. In leaning wide cracks it is often advantageous to have your back against the lower angle side, so that rests can easily be found by leaning back (as opposed to being forced up against the crack). For this route you will want your left side in.
Arrange your gear on a sling, so there is nothing on your harness to get caught.
Keep in mind that in wide cracks and chimneys you can often optimize your body position to provide added security. Done properly, it is hard to fall out of a wide crack, although the tendency for the leader is to get too deep in a wide crack, which is not always the easiest way to climbing one.
The secret to wide cracks is focusing on your lower body. It is the legs that do most of the pushing and stabilizing. Use your arms to maintain your position. For this climb, heel-toe jams with the left foot work well. You can also torque your left knee to help. Arm bar with your left, and move systematically: secure your arms position, then release your lower body (legs, feet) and slide them to a higher position. Now lock them in, and slide up (don't pull) with your upper body by pushing with your legs. Lock the upper body and repeat.
This climb is a little runout, but short. If in doubt, try it on tr.
A nice progression on the Nautilus for learning wide cracks is: Easy Jam 5.4, Baldwin's Chimney 5.4, Right Parallel Space 5.5, Piton Perch 5.6, Slit 5.7, Hamburger Crack 5.7, Candlestick 5.7, Upper Slot 5.7+. Remember that, unfortunately, easier wide cracks tend to be squeezes, and are often poorly protected, so take this progression slowly.
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