It's surprising that this route hasn't been added to MP until now, since it's one of the best routes on Blair III. Start by climbing a nice, hand crack that angles right to a sloping ledge. From the ledge, pull the first of two cruxes up a steep and strenuous crack/face. The next crux is a challenging offwidth that leans left and offers some good grunting.
Location
This route is located on the northwest face of Blair III towards the southwest end. Look for a triangular inset of rock about 20' off the ground to find the start.
Protection
Medium stoppers to #4.5 Camalot. There is a two bolt anchor at the top and two ropes are needed to rap off (one 70m might reach).
By Tyler Smeenk From: Laramie, WY Jun 2, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Get on this thing, very fun. My friend said a 60 meter rope got him to the ground. Make sure your rope is 60, apperently my buddy's rope is not a full 60 meter, as I was left hanging in a tree about 20 feet up.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Aug 4, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c
I am not one to typically pay attention to grade fights, but can we all please stop regurgitating ratings in the books. Most will agree that where the consensus in the guide books was 9+ at Vedauwoo, this typically refers to a period in time when ratings stopped at 9. This is yet another example of one of these old school ratings where the aspiring 9 leader will find themselves first flailing and then probably aiding their way up or running around the backside to rap off and retrieve their gear.
This thing is wide and sustained - right off the ground you will find that what looks like a nice hand crack is actually fairly insecure until about 15' off the ground. Getting up into the first wide section itself (around block split by two converging cracks) is tricky due to the angle and the steepness of the face. After this, the grunting begins as you hit several wide sections - the first two being right leaning and the last being left leaning. I believe that route actually gets more difficult toward the top, with the last wide section before the anchors being an all-out heel-toe, arm-barring grunt to the top.
This route is long and will probably feel best if you have doubles in the hands to at least #4 Camalots - probably be better to have a #4.5 or 5, but is doable with just #4s.
What is the deal with the mods deleting comments here on the Vedauwoo site? Tyler is entitled to his opinion, and shouldn't be censored. Suck it up, grades at Vedauwoo are stiff, so quit whining. If they are too hard for you, then stay in Colorado.
That's right, I don't like some greenie calling me a regurgitator on this site or anywhere else for that matter. I tend to take offense to someone from CO (or anywhere else) telling me how I should grade the routes at Vedauwoo. In my opinion, the route goes at 9+. Matt you can stay down in CO and tell people how to grades routes down there for all I care.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Nov 18, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c
Regurgitator? I am not even sure what that means. And that comment was not necessarily directed at anyone in particular. Feel free to rate it 9+ if you wish, Tyler. I am just pointing out the fact that there are some inconsistencies in terms of the grading here. Let's take a look at what's in the area - would you recommend this route to someone breaking into 9s that just cruised A Dream of Fat Antelope, suggesting that this one is just "slightly" more difficult? Or do you think that Jogging to Vedauwoo is more difficult? The point is, that although Ved has the reputation for stiff grades, it is just like every other area in that some of the climbs are considerably easier than those given in the guide books and some are considerably more difficult. I am suggesting that, based on other routes in the area with comparable grades, maybe the 9+ is a sandbag (although not a big one). So relax, I'm not telling you what to do. I'm expressing an opinion.
And for those considering doing this route - despite Pablo's comments indicating my "whining", note how many stars I gave this route - this thing is awesome and you shouldn't miss it if you are in the area.
I think the FA on this one may go to Jim Brink (an offwidth connoisseur and fellow greenie who has put up a lot of stuff in Vedauwoo).
By C K Mills From: Fort Collins, Colorado Nov 20, 2008
You have to love the good nature of Ved climbers, don't you.
If I may be so bold, and at the risk of having disparaging comments flung at me because I'm a climber from (skoff) COLORADO of all places, where everyone knows, there are no climbers, or PLACES to climb...If we study not the climb, but your POSTS, notice Matt's initial post, is concise, HELPFUL and descriptive of why he believes it goes at his believed grade....
Wyo guys just pretty much say "suck it and go home" for having any kind of opinion other than what's in the book. That is why mountain project exists...to share HELPFUL opinions, and come to CONSENSUS on what may be less than universally agreed upon. It's meant to be helpful, not to squabble about "greenies" coming and...uh-oh, climbing YOUR routes. (which notably, they are not.) Verily, they don't have to be climbed as you insist they should, and if Matt wishes to give someone a helpful heads up as to the fact that this route may not be what would widely be accepted at the current grade of 9+...it may be just that...HELPFUL to someone. A strange thought.
Matt has a point. Grades used to stop at 9. Perhaps then, the original grade of 9+ means it's balls hard for a 9. I think I'll come back up to roof ranch and start regrading things B2+ so I can help people really know what they are climbing in the style of a true Wyo climbing cowboy.
By C K Mills From: Fort Collins, Colorado Nov 21, 2008
Hmm. Again being told to "suck it and go home". Please, someone else tell me to go back to Colorado where the climbing is so awful. Please be a bit more receptive to outsiders views yeah? We aren't trying to convert you. We are trying to share helpful insight to those who may NOT be trying to shove your own license plate up your ass.
As per the grade of 9+ being thrown up after 10s and 11s...yeah, I don't doubt there has been a 9 established after the invent of higher grades which accompanied new shoe and climbing pro technology.
I'm pretty sure there must be a few legitimate 9+s out there after Layton Kor climbed the naked edge at the initial grade of 9+ too. Tell you what, I am a friend of Jim Brink as well, I will ask him about the 9+ grade, to settle something, Then I will keep it to myself since my the color on my license plate pretty much means you won't give a damn anyway.
This kills me. Believe me, if we treated your guys areas the way many of you do ours, a bunch of you guys would go off the deep end. You know that new Colorado Bouldering book by Bob Horan? Please stop conducting yourselves like that. Fortunately that statement doesn't apply to all Colorado climbers, only some.