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Blade Runner 

5.11b

   

FA: P. Piana, B. Devine, K. Bein, 1982
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 1,224 page views

Submitted By: nolteboy on Sep 17, 2005


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Rob Kepley sending Blade Runner with "pumphouse".
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Description 

If facing STRAIGHT & NARROW, head downhill to the left, passing MOON TIDE and then a rubble-filled gully. Stay to the right, up and over some boulders, and you'll see BLADE RUNNER straight ahead- a clean, less-than-vertical dihedral with a very thin crack.

This route is a Vedauwoo classic. Instead of the typical blue-collar thuggery required by most climbs at the 'Voo, this one is more balancy and touchy-feely stuff. Two distinct cruxes will be encountered. The first is a thin lieback past two fixed nuts (the second of which, a wedged copperhead, looks to be the better of the two) about 10 or 12 feet off the deck. Jam and lieback the thin crack above to a great no-hands rest, then finagle your way up to where the crack starts to close down. Place gear and commit to the thin, spooky moves up to and past a tiny copperhead pasted into the seam. A committing, but not too difficult, mantle follows, at which point you can place a hand-sized cam and regain your wits. Twenty feet of low fifth class up the corner leads to a belay (gear in crack on left or sling giant blocks on right) - there is no fixed anchor. Descend by scrambling up and to the right, then down the rubble-filled gully- pretty casual descent.


Protection 

Mostly nuts (all sizes) and smallish cams. A couple of hand-sized pieces.


Descent 

Per Jeff G.: There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.



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By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.11b

There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.

edited to add: I didn't place the bolts. I don't know who did, I'm just reporting the facts.

By Beached Nuts
From: Bermuda bitches
Nov 9, 2007

I saw those. Do you suppose they were needed on a route with a casual walkoff? Just curious as to whether those were conscensus bolts or just some guy who thought he was doing everyone a favor?

By jammer
Nov 10, 2007

I agree John. If I remember correctly, there was a good gear anchor and an casual walkoff which deposits you nearly at the base of the climb. As a result, I think the bolts on this are not necessary.