This is me just after the hole, July 2003. Pic wa...
Description
This is a wonderfully varied route, and can get you temporarily away from the crowds on the Clamshell.
Approach: Gain the Clamshell, and climb any of the routes from EO Lieback through Drop Zone.
P1: From the ledge at the top of these climbs, move right on an easy traverse; up a short, easy crack; and through a chimney. If you're small, grab this lead: it provides a wonderful opportunity to laugh at your bigger partners as they get wedged in the chimney approaching your belay.
P2: The hole is obvious. Climb up into it, then up out of it on the left. Tons of opportunity for style points here; if you get contorted such that you're bending 90 degrees at the waist, facing inwards, and your back is against the top of the cave, you lose them all. (Of course, you gain amusement points from your smaller partner, who has probably just taken the butt shot of the year, and will surely publish it at first chance.)
Descent: Rap the Fall Wall.
Protection
Nothing tiny, nothing bigger than hands. You'll probably access this climb by doing a single sport pitch.
Great climb. Beware if you are not skinny on the chimney pitch - do as the description suggests and let the thinner people lead it (or use a swami belt and minimal rack)! Had a great time getting myself unstuck.
Did this Labor-day weekend. Had just done the 5.8 roof variant of Calypso in Eldo and thought the roof of the Hole was harder (but has better jams). Love that big knob out to the left of the lip of the roof, tho'. To descend we went up and right (north) from the top of the second pitch and around the top of the formation and down the low-angle slab on the west side of it to get to the rap anchors at the top of the fall wall. Two raps back to the Clamshell. I'm thin (6-2 165lbs) and would agree about the chimney.
I consider this an absolute Vedauwoo classic. Climbing out of the hole is strangely reminiscent of the cave exit on the book at Lumpy ridge. I recommend linking Cold fingers and the squeeze chimney and belaying at the base of the hole. Then puzzle out of the hole, which should put a big smile on your face. I'd bring gear up to a #3 camalot. In addition to the Fall Wall decent, one can also walk off right.
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