Classic Sandbag. Slightly overhanging, thin fingers to hands up top. Start off the top of the obvious block in the corridor. The flare makes for good feet in the crack, all the edges on the outside just break away. The name is making fun of a couple of spraymasters who were sandbagged on the line, then laughed at because they couldn't even do women's work.
Location
As you approach EOTRR as per the description, you will see a slightly flared splitter finger crack facing you (on the west side of EOTRR), the bottom hidden behind another part of the formation. It has greenish yellow lichen prettying it up, a pod near the top, and a horizontal crack intersects the left side near the bottom. You have to scramble up some slabs and into a narrow gully to get to it. Starts off a wedged boulder in the gully.
Protection
#4 Zero through #2.5 Friend. You can also get a big hands or fist piece for the easy top section. Fixed nut at start. Shuts up top.
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Jul 16, 2009 rating: 5.10d
The fixed nut is gone. Incidentally, we found that stemming in made the start doable, but we're not certain if that bypasses some of the crux. Thoughts?
I've climbed the start straight on and there is fairly tough move, kind of an insecure tips lock if I remember correctly. Stemming in kind of seems the natural thing to do, although you feel kind of dirty doing it....
Where are you guys stemming? Sorry if my lackluster route description led you all astray. I changed it slightly, so hopefully it is fixed now.
The climb starts on top of the block in the corridor. Reach accross the gap, get a thin but bomber finger lock or two, then jam the crack to the top. If you are stemming anything but the 5.1 section to get on top of the block, you should feel dirty ;).
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Jul 16, 2009 rating: 5.10d
We stemmed from that block so we didn't have to use that rattly tips lock thing (its too shallow for anything but tips, but too wide for anything else). It'd be doable, and wouldn't impact the grade that much (maybe bump a full number grade up from the sandbag grade), but the stem makes getting off the ground so much easier that you'd have to force yourself to not use it.
Jammer, I think we are talking about the same thing (i.e. scramble up on top of the block, lean across to the locks, and jump into action). If so, I feel less dirty now.
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