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Tongue River Canyon

Submitted By: John Gunnels on Apr 24, 2006
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Looking back toward the trailhead at the Keyhole A...


Description 

Numerous limestone walls with routes for all abilities. Trad lines... bolt clipping... whatever your taste may be, you'll find it here. The south-facing walls can be incredibly hot in the summer... and quite warm in latter winter and early spring. Regarding crowds... you're more likely to trip over fishermen than have to wait for the classic lines.


Getting There 

East of Sheridan on I-90 about 15 miles to the Ranchester exit. West on 14A about 5 miles to Dayton. As you are entering town, just before crossing the Tongue River bridge, turn right and follow the road that parallels the Tongue River. About 3 miles of dirt road will lead you to a Y in the road. Bear left, regain the river for about 2 more miles. The road ends in your parking lot. Follow the foot trail for about 1/2 mile to a bridge that crosses the river. The first climbs are located on the wall to your immediate right. Continue on the trail upstream... and you'll see SEVERAL walls to your right.

For more detailed information, stop in at Bighorn Mountain Sports or Back Country Bicycles in Sheridan, Wyoming.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tongue River Canyon:
Edwards Crack   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet   Big Bird Area
Close To The Edge   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Big Bird Area
White Knight   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Knight
Pangs of Battle   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Knight
Browse More Classics in Tongue River Canyon

Featured Route For Tongue River Canyon
Levi Van Buggenum styling the classic Edwards Crack.

Edwards Crack 5.9  WY : Tongue River Canyon : Big Bird Area
The uber-classic canyon trad route! A splitter fingercrack up a yellow, right-facing dihedral capped by a roof. Ascend it using assorted stemming, laybacking, fingerlocks, and faceholds; save some energy for the devious traverse below the upper roof to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY


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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Dec 7, 2007

A new cragging guidebook to the east side of the Bighorns is in the works and should be out spring of '09. It will provide comprehensive coverage of the trailside walls in Tongue with 100 routes described. It will feature route and area history, directions, and full photo overviews of each wall. Look for it locally at Backcountry Bicycles in Sheridan or the Sports Lure in Buffalo, or regionally in climbing shops throughout Wyoming, southern Montana, and the Hills.

By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 7, 2007

I have some tremendous memories of Tongue River Canyon. What a wonderful place, along with Steamboat Rock.