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Purple Galaxy
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Purple Galaxy 

5.12a

   

FA: Paul Piana
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 574 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 25, 2006


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Nice hat, eh?


Description 

Purple Galaxy busts some bouldery initial climbing up to and past the first bolt, followed by some great sequential pocket pulling. It slowly eases off as you approach the 1st set of chains. Keep going though! The upper bulge adds a nice little punch to the end of the route, with some pumpy climbing and some last minute decision making. For those who track the numbers, probably soft at 12a to the 1st set of anchors, but solid if you take the full ride.8


Location 

This is the first long route (over 4-5 bolts) on the wall, located on a nice purple section of the wall, just before and to the right of a low prow / arete feature. If you see a boltrd left facing dihedral, you've just passed it.


Protection 

8 bolts to 1st anchor and 4 more to final anchor, so 13-14 bolts + anchor for the full pitch. Over 25m to top anchor! So 60m rope or mid anchor pit stop needed.



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All smiles on a good line.

All smiles on a good line.