Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Lower Peninsula Face
Show routes:
Select route...
Caleb's Day Out 
Project HIGHBALL 

Caleb's Day Out 

5.9+ V2-

   

FA: Conor Raney
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Boulder
Consensus: 5.9+ V2- [details]
Length: 35 feet
Views: 76 page views

Submitted By: Conor Raney on Oct 19, 2009


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

No definite crux really. An easy going crack climb.


Location 

Crack starts on the far right side of the face. Easy to find.


Protection 

Bring a couple runners and cams .75 to 3.



Comments on Caleb's Day Out Add Comment
Show which comments
By Phil Lauffen
From: Boulder
Oct 21, 2009

I'm confused. a 5.9+ climb is now V2? Or is there a 5.9+ climb leading to a V2 boulder problem?

By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Oct 22, 2009

Starting I think from Vedauwoo, pure crack climbs that are boulder problems are given YDS grades alongside v-grades, presumably with the understanding that if this was the crux of a route, that's what the route would go at, but there's rarely such a yawning abyss between the accepted V/YDS equivalency and the grade. Although, it is 5.9+

By Phil Lauffen
From: Boulder
Oct 24, 2009

So wouldn't it be V0- then?

By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Oct 26, 2009

I bolded the plus-sign in my previous comment. I do find it a bit weird that its 5.9+ V2. Maybe we're to interpret 5.9+ to mean 5.9+n where n is the difference between the real grade and the sandbag grade.

By Phil Lauffen
From: Boulder
Oct 26, 2009

so n is the difference between the real grade and the sandbag grade... a difference of n=V2. So the sandbag grade is 5.9+ and this* says V2 is 5.11d, so 5.9++5.11d=5.12b range for the real grade? I'm not sure how this works...

http://www.spadout.com/wiki/index.php/Climbing_Grades

By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Oct 27, 2009

No, if V2 is called 5.11d (which is news to me, but that's why I hate the V-grades), then n is approximately 2.

If it was 5.9+ V7, then n is approximately 4. Get it? The idea is that we print both grades so that the average crack climber (who may or may not boulder that much) can figure out how difficult a crack line is without having to refer to a reference sheet. Mind you, it only works when both grades are sandbagged equivalently, rather than differently as in this case.

By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY and Larchwood, IA
5 days ago

the route is actually 5.9+, I gave the V2 rating because it's 35 feet with an easy but sketchy crux towards the top. So, I just figured that the mental aspect would contribute towards the grade...idk, but is that ok if I do that? or is in looked down on?