BETA PHOTO: Climbing on the CMC Face with Falling Ice Glacier ...
Description
A classic climb in a beautiful location. Although the CMC Route is the most popular route on Mount Moran, it does not see a lot of traffic compared to other Teton trade routes. On a summer day there are usually 3 or fewer parties attempting the CMC Route.
While a fast party can climb the route in a day, it is more leisurely to use the CMC campground for the night before (and possibly the night after) the climb. A backcountry permit is required to use the CMC campground (available from the climbing rangers at Jenny Lake).
The usual approach is to canoe across String and Leigh Lakes to a point below the East and West Horns on the east side of Mount Moran. From the base of the lake an obvious but eroded trail leads up the hillside among beautiful wildflowers for about 1500 feet to the CMC campsite. The trail traverses left (south) just below the campsite; follow cairns and tape on some trees.
The CMC campsite is located among trees and near a spring. It has beautiful views and feels pleasantly secluded.
To climb the CMC route, first hike to the summit of Drizzlepuss, descend into the notch between Drizzlepuss and the east face of Moran, then climb the east face of Moran.
From the CMC campsite a trail goes to the top of Drizzlepuss with some scrambling. The trail can be difficult to follow in the dark, so it helps to scout where it goes before a pre-dawn start. Watch the cairns carefully to find the easiest fourth class route through the cliff bands. If you miss the easiest scramble, you may find yourself on fifth class ground and want to rope up. After this steep section, follow the scree slope, heading left around the West Horn, to the top of Drizzlepuss. This is a good location to leave extra water or packs for the descent.
From the top of Drizzlepuss, scramble down a short distance to the right (north) to find an rappel anchor. From this anchor you can rap or downclimb into the notch.
The interesting climbing starts from this notch. Initially the climb heads up a short corner, then traverses right (north) to avoid Unsoeld's needle. After the traverse pick a path up the broad east face of Moran, staying to the left of the prominent Black Dike. There are many possible lines up the face. The traditional CMC route stays near the center of the face. Several pitches of climbing lead to the top of the face.
From the broad summit ridge, it is an easy walk right (north) to the proper summit of Mount Moran.
The descent is somewhat involved. With careful routefinding it is only fourth-class downclimbing and does not require rappelling; if the correct route isn't found it may be more difficult. The descent stays near the south end of the east face of Moran (climber's left). From the notch between the face and Drizzlepuss, climb back up to the summit of Drizzlepuss. This is easier if you stay to the south (climber's right) of Drizzlepuss.
The remainder of the descent just reverses the hike back to the CMC campground and the lake.
Location
The CMC route climbs the broad east face of Mount Moran, staying to the left (south) of the Black Dike. See above for more details on the approach.
Here's another trip report. We also have a short video from the day. Last year my wife and I climbed the CMC with her 59-year old dad in a day from their home in Jackson. Needless to say, he was pretty proud!
By kevinhansen From: Kanab UTAH Aug 1, 2009 rating: 5.5 PG13
Want Advice? 1) I STRONGLY ADVISE SCOUTING OUT THE FIRST 30 MINUTES ABOVE CMC CAMP. 2) Leave camp no earlier than 4am. 3) As always watch out for thundershowers around noon. 4) Pack yer gear after you check in at Jenney Lake and get your required bear can and permits. 5) Early in the season means melt water near camp. 6) Sticky rubber trail shoes are perfect. Sport shoes are good for beginners. Take comfy shoes for the walk off and rapp's. The other trip reports are worth while to read, but the "in the Alpine World" one was more story than trip report. I'd say this climb was similar to Upper Exum with respect to the amount of climbing vs hiking. Both are 75% hiking and 25% rock climbing. That said I found the trad climbing some of the funnest, easiest, Alpine climbing I've ever done. Imagine moving fast over easy ground, plenty of places to place gear and set up a belay where ever you want. I took my Dad and 2 brothers which ment 1 first time climber, 2 professional beginners, and me a seasoned intermediate. I'd lead, then bring 2 up to me on a reverso, then 1 would belay me up the next pitch while the other would belay the 4th up. The 4th would break down the anchor and clean while I was leading the next pitch. This method is faster then a 2 man team. This is also a great simo-climb on 1 rope, but two are needed for the rapp's.
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